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Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Little Cottonwo…
> Black Peeler Bu…
> S Face
Sportsman's Paradise
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Avg: 2 from 7
votes
Routes in South Face
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[Redacted] T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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[Redacted] S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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American Coot T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Better Than Bikinis T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Daffy's Shaft T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Dark of the Moon S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Duck A L'Orange T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Duck Soup to Missing Duck to Cooter to Father's Day T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Duck Waddle Variation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Fool's Paradise T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Frozen Stool T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Great Grebes, Batman! T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Hornet, The A2 |
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Megadeth T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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No Chicken Slab S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Pied-Billed Grebe S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Playing In The Sun T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Power Wedgie S V3 6A |
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Ruddy Duck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Slayer T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Sportsman's Paradise T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Thirstier Than Thongs T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Uglier Than Underoos T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Via Duck S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Walking the Duck T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Western Grebe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Western Grebe Mantel Var. S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Why a Duck? S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 215 ft (65 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Mark Bennett, Thomas Koch, Bill Robins 1987 |
| Page Views: | 1,622 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Folsom on Jun 27, 2010 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: On private land.
Details
The land on which sits Black Peeler Buttress is owned by Perpetual Storage perpetualstorage.com/index_….
Be respectful of private property.
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Pitch 1- From the belay boulders climb up, then right around the edge of the first steep wall. Move back left and set up a belay with gear. (5.6)
Pitch 2- Climb a steep boulder problem near the right edge of the next steep wall splitting the slabs. Above the boulder problem bulge, easier climbing leads up a right leaning dihedral. At the top of the dihedral, move back left on easy slab to a belay anchor below the next thin roof crack. (5.11)
Pitch 3- Climb the next roof using the thin crack which widens slightly at the lip. As it says in the Ruckman Guide, "a mini separate reality". Above the roof, I continued up and right past a bolt to a belay anchor on a slab. (5.10) -the original belay atop this pitch was in a group of trees. Those trees are now dead and could probably be easily pulled out. Better to belay up and right at the bolt anchor.
Pitch 2- Climb a steep boulder problem near the right edge of the next steep wall splitting the slabs. Above the boulder problem bulge, easier climbing leads up a right leaning dihedral. At the top of the dihedral, move back left on easy slab to a belay anchor below the next thin roof crack. (5.11)
Pitch 3- Climb the next roof using the thin crack which widens slightly at the lip. As it says in the Ruckman Guide, "a mini separate reality". Above the roof, I continued up and right past a bolt to a belay anchor on a slab. (5.10) -the original belay atop this pitch was in a group of trees. Those trees are now dead and could probably be easily pulled out. Better to belay up and right at the bolt anchor.
Location
To the right of Western Grebe is an area of slabs divided by steep walls and roofs. Scramble up and go right along a steep wall until reaching a nice belay spot in boulders.
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