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Aeolian Wall (Original Route)
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British A2
Avg: 3.3 from 3
votes
Routes in Aeolian Wall
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Aeolian Wall (Original Route) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2 |
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Cactus Connection T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Cactus Joe's Connection T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dream of Wild Cheeseburgers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Evolution Arete T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b C1 |
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Gift of the Wind Gods T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Inti Watana T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Jedi Mind Tricks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2 |
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Original Sin, The T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Pagan Sacrifice T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Resolution Arete T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1 |
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Salami Wand Kenobi T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c C2 R |
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Taco Tuesday T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C1 |
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Thanatos T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Wicked, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Woman of Mountain Dreams T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 2000 ft (606 m), 9 pitches, Grade V |
| FA: | Joe Herbst, Larry Hamilton 1975 |
| Page Views: | 5,279 total · 31/month |
| Shared By: | Karsten Duncan on May 24, 2010 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
A historic and bold route for its time, the Aeolian Wall remains a seldom climbed testpiece of Red Rock climbing. Despite being one of the parks oldest routes it has seen only a handful of ascents over the 35 years since it was established. One can only imagine what Hamilton and Herbst must have been thinking going up this foreboding wall in a time before cams & high angle rescues.
The adventure aficionado will enjoy a route much unchanged from those times. A few bold & spectacular aid pitches on mostly solid rock eventually give way to more moderate but varied climbing above. Rock quality varies significantly but is generally of decent quality. This odyssey through the bowels of lady Wilson is an experience few undertake but rewards those who endure with an unforgettable experience that no pullout climb can provide.
Approach
Just up the gulley from the Resolution Arete the approach requires climbing up a mossy crack on the left-hand side of a water-streaked slab. Climb this crack to a small shrub and then move left on easier terrain to reach the large ledge system below the route. Continue back right up ramps to the base of the unmistakable vertical wall with the large left facing corner.
Pitch 1 5.9 120ft
Climb flakes in the corner past some loose rock near the corner to a new looking 2 bolt anchor. (Old threaded slings nearby)
Pitch 2 5.9 A2 150ft
From the anchor, move right to the chimney climbing past a star-drive bolt. Free climb and aid the chimney and taking a nice crack leading onto the right face. Belay at a stance with hand sized gear about 20ft below a bolt above.
Pitch 3 5.9 A3 190ft
Continue up the corner past a bolt into a knifeblade seam. At the roof move right on 4 original bolts and then continue out the roof on knifeblades (A3 exciting and airy). Pull the lip, clip another ancient bolt and continue up 5.9/A1 cracks to a claustrophobic chimney with fixed bong in back.
Pitch 4 - 5.8 - 110ft
Continue out the chimney and up cracks to the Crotch ledge. Good bivy for 3+.
Pitch 5 - 5.8 - 195ft
Take a chimney that moves up & angles left into a slab. Climb the slab past a bolt to a cool cave-like ledge. Good bivy for 4+.
Pitch 6-7 - 5.8 - 220-260ft
Take yet another nice chimney above with sparse protection to a ledge.
Pitch 7 - 5.8 - 190ft
From the ledge climb a small step through bushes and up a 4-6 inch crack. At a convenient point traverse right into the next gulley system over (Lots of options).
Pitch 8-9 - 5.9 - 100-250ft
Move up the gulley system through a series of ledges and chimneys to reach a saddle (near Resolution Arete). Belay from trees/bushes.
Pitch 10-13 - 3rd class
Turn right (west) and move up generally the left side of the rock towers near the top to gain the summit ridge.
Descent:
Take Oak or First Creek descents
The adventure aficionado will enjoy a route much unchanged from those times. A few bold & spectacular aid pitches on mostly solid rock eventually give way to more moderate but varied climbing above. Rock quality varies significantly but is generally of decent quality. This odyssey through the bowels of lady Wilson is an experience few undertake but rewards those who endure with an unforgettable experience that no pullout climb can provide.
Approach
Just up the gulley from the Resolution Arete the approach requires climbing up a mossy crack on the left-hand side of a water-streaked slab. Climb this crack to a small shrub and then move left on easier terrain to reach the large ledge system below the route. Continue back right up ramps to the base of the unmistakable vertical wall with the large left facing corner.
Pitch 1 5.9 120ft
Climb flakes in the corner past some loose rock near the corner to a new looking 2 bolt anchor. (Old threaded slings nearby)
Pitch 2 5.9 A2 150ft
From the anchor, move right to the chimney climbing past a star-drive bolt. Free climb and aid the chimney and taking a nice crack leading onto the right face. Belay at a stance with hand sized gear about 20ft below a bolt above.
Pitch 3 5.9 A3 190ft
Continue up the corner past a bolt into a knifeblade seam. At the roof move right on 4 original bolts and then continue out the roof on knifeblades (A3 exciting and airy). Pull the lip, clip another ancient bolt and continue up 5.9/A1 cracks to a claustrophobic chimney with fixed bong in back.
Pitch 4 - 5.8 - 110ft
Continue out the chimney and up cracks to the Crotch ledge. Good bivy for 3+.
Pitch 5 - 5.8 - 195ft
Take a chimney that moves up & angles left into a slab. Climb the slab past a bolt to a cool cave-like ledge. Good bivy for 4+.
Pitch 6-7 - 5.8 - 220-260ft
Take yet another nice chimney above with sparse protection to a ledge.
Pitch 7 - 5.8 - 190ft
From the ledge climb a small step through bushes and up a 4-6 inch crack. At a convenient point traverse right into the next gulley system over (Lots of options).
Pitch 8-9 - 5.9 - 100-250ft
Move up the gulley system through a series of ledges and chimneys to reach a saddle (near Resolution Arete). Belay from trees/bushes.
Pitch 10-13 - 3rd class
Turn right (west) and move up generally the left side of the rock towers near the top to gain the summit ridge.
Descent:
Take Oak or First Creek descents
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