South Platte Ethics DEFINED

slim wrote:mike storeim commented about easy runouts not counting if you have to climb hard stuff to get to them.

Not exactly.

All I was really doing was calling BS on the poster who made it sound like there were lots of routes in the Platte with 80' runouts and the like.

And, of course, I was actually referring to the runout pitches on CE when I made that comment. Anyone who can climb the madatory 10 & 11 to get to the runout 5.6 should be able to handle it. (Barring of course, any weird stuff)

WiledHorse wrote: frat house?

Can I have a Platte pledge pin??

Tom Pierce wrote: Wiled: OK, interesting. ...

Great points tom, and I was wondering when that would be brought up! I too have dabbled in hand drilling on lead to appreciate the old ways. In fact the first hundred or so bolts I drilled was by hand (albeit on rap). One experience on lead left me about 20 feet above my pro on a sloping stance to place a bolt. Thirty minutes and one cigarette later I was clipping the rope and looking up the rest of the pitch. Not seeing another stance I just gunned for the belay. While maybe only 5.9 climbing, it was great to see that when I have returned to climb that section, I thought to myself that I probably could/would have poked another one in had I had the Ball and Chain instead of the hand drill! Was a great lesson, but was proud nonetheless.

Glenn Schuler wrote: Can I have a Platte pledge pin??

Only if Fields o Dreams or Shock Treatment are not the hazing routes! Yikes.

Mongo Tongo!

WiledHorse wrote: and bring the Ball and Chain with us? oh wait, we will!

Re-read your ethics manual d-bag; bolting Zokas is strictly off limits.

Though, bolting to is totally cool.
Man, that's good beer.

Mark Nelson wrote: bolting Zokas is strictly off limits.

was that because i was going do it on rappel?

shit, that reminds me, I had to bail rapidly & left a bottle of wine at the base of the Sph...

no, wait, everything's cool

Xnihps kcarc? Peek ti no eht ld, ffub!

Dave Bell
Dictator of Foxton
Thought this would be appropriate for the thread. He ran the show down here!

Indeed it is.
In my much younger days, I remember drinking beer with Dave while he told stories about some of the FAs he'd done. Ever heard the tale behind Too Much Glue?
Since we're now officially pining, I guess it's OK to realize that I'm sitting here wearing a Bryn Mawr Inn t-shirt right now by coincidence. This makes me want a bit of scotch in the old Kahlúa coffee mug. Anyone remember those? This will certainly ring a Bell with those that frequented the Platte before the place burned in . . .'93?
This is a rare exchange, so I can't help it . . .

"The Bryn to the Ground Mawr." I wonder what happened to Karen? She hung pictures of us locals climbing in that place. God the food was rough but it was a very climber friendly place. Hell she ran credit for us. It was sad when we lost it. I lost my shirt to a girlfriend. Nice relic Bill.

And Dave sure did hold court there at the end. All bent over but in good spirits.

Cheers!

The last time I saw Karen she was at the Coney in the late 90's. I gave her a ride up the hill, and things seemed good with her and Ayla.
She was always a very kind host. I spent quite a few nights in the tepee out back of the Bryn. Climbed Cynical with her once upon a time too. Went looking for pictures of her, but only found ancient phone numbers for Dave, Lee, Brett, Noel, Ken, and Karen, written on Trout's Rock and Ice Platte insert. When did that come out, '88ish? I'll have to dig deeper for some shots like Olaf posted. Classic.

If anyone has an update on Karen, it would be good to hear.

Dave did always seem to be in a good mood, despite his ambulatory issues. Always willing to chat.

I was in the teepee a couple of times after hard nights. For some reason I ended up out there with Lee. I guess he couldn't himself to Buffalo Creek.

Tom did the same service at the Bucksnort. The little off building on the creek was often offered as a free crash pad. Christ even the White Horse saloon between Deckers and Westcreek also offered free housing to useless climbers. . What fun days.