Notch where we gained the ridge on attempt 1 (easier options exist)

All Locations > California > High Sierra > 06 - Little Lak… > Bear Creek Spire > E Arete (5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c)

Notch where we gained the ridge on attempt 1 (easier options exist)

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looking east

Starting up the (not recommended) chimney (photo by Jascha)

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fossana

May 5, 2010

“Notch where we gained the ridge on attempt 1 (easier options exist)”

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Nearby Photos

NB on the knife-edge. The first "square tower" is behind her to the right

Reflection of BCS, Abbot and Dade on Long Lake

ice on Long Lake

N, NE and E Aretes

looking back on the route

crux headwall

one of the final towers

another notch

looking east

Notch where we gained the ridge on attempt 1 (easier options exist)

Starting up the (not recommended) chimney (photo by Jascha)

Scary slab moves on knobs (one of which broke off when I went up).

looking east

Jascha heading up the ramp on the other side of the first major notch.

The real exposure starts.

The exposure starts

On the ridge proper

Climbing out of the first notch (photo by Jascha)

descent via the NE Ridge (Dade, Treasure and Gem Lakes below)

I aimed for the ramp system high and center.

looking toward Dade from the summit

one of the many spires

Icy section (early Sep)

Scary, dirty, loose chimney I stupidly ascended. Stepped across to large ledge part way up.

tunnel

Back onto the ridge

looking down the ramp

More towers

one of the talusy sections

Gaining the ridge just before we bailed.

I traversed around this tower as the rock didn't look so great.

Spire Lake and Peppermint Peak

progress so far

first portion of the E Arete

starting the picket fence

second portion of the E Arete

Sierra "class 4"

the route starts near where the dark and light rocks meet

picket fence

better starting option (from attempt 2)

looking down the route from the summit

notch at the top of the chimney

E Arete from the NE Ridge

south side of the arete

Jordan eyeing up his options. He climbed the obvious weakness from the notch, but I opted to traverse hard right across the face to the arete and found good climbing with great exposure, albeit a little crispy like everything else on route

the route

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