What does your Woody look like???
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A pic of my newest woodie, one I built after moving to Seattle a month ago. A pic of my old one is back on page two of this thread. |
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This is a pretty cool little woody that's completely removable from the doorway. You have to scrunch down to use that first HIT strip, but other than that it works great. I've been wanting one for years but have never had the space (damn apartments!). This design lets me train my rump off, even without a garage or basement. Takes about 5 minutes to set up. |
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Dustin - sweet way to take advantage of a small space. How did you attach the wall to the door-frame while making it removable? |
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Andy - It's a cantilever design that kind of pushes against the wall above the door on one side if you pull down on the thing on the other side of the door (as you can tell, I'm not a professional wordsmith). There's one cross-support that serves as a type of fulcrum that you can sort of see in the picture. I got the idea from those cheezy pull-up bars that you can hang in your doorway. I'm on the road at the moment but will post some pics of it when I get home if you're interested (will be early June). |
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Found a real cool video on some people building a home woody in their house. Gives a real good example on how to construct it and what goes into all of it. |
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Woodchuck ATC wrote:Nice size, great colors! Volumes are THE best part of home woodys. And pretty easy to make, even for me, a non-carpenter kind of person. Let me loose with a hammer, square, and some spare lumber and here are some features I"ve added to my walls in the last year.How did you make them? I'm thinking of addding a few to my wall. |
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Kevin Brooks Henry wrote: How did you make them? I'm thinking of addding a few to my wall.whatever 3/4 inch plywood scrap that was left, that was the shape I made. Worked from a couple right angled chunks, various length legs. Use a 2 by 4 inside to anchor it, usually at the right angle, then screw it together. Drill one bolt hole. Place the longest bolt you can find(like 7 to 8 inches) to place it on the wall. Then predrill some screw holes around the whole perimeter. Screw it in at least an inch or more, all around the whole thing. They are all pretty solid. Boards are coated with texture before I drilled the t-nut holes, etc. I haven't yet progressed much past simple right triangles as my basic shape, but it works so far. |
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The kids like it more than anyone. |
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Christopher Jones wrote:The kids like it more than anyone.That's soo awesome Chris! I wish I was exposed to climbing at a young age like that. |
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So, I finally bought pretty much all I need to make my home woody, but may have got the wrong screws to attach the plywood to the frame. I bought 2" decking screws, thinking that 1.25" of thread should be enough to hold the sheet, considering there'll be a screw every 4-6" or so. |
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2 inch is fine. I used a bit longer for overhanging stuff. High quality deck screws. I'm sure I overloaded them, about a foot apart at the most, sometimes closer. Never had a board come loose or pull out. Some have been in place for over 14 years outside in humid midwest with no rot or failure. Here's a couple photos of my 2008-2009 update efforts to home wall. 'Fang shaped thing is free hanging and built of only 1/2 inch plywood. You can see the spacing of the screws. |
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Just finished mine over memorial day... |
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You guys that have had your walls for a little while, if you had enough space to have 2 different angles, what would you do? Call me a 5.11+/12- gymz climber for a rough strength estimate. I want to be able to dry tool on it too. |
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Chris Plesko wrote:You guys that have had your walls for a little while, if you had enough space to have 2 different angles, what would you do? Call me a 5.11+/12- gymz climber for a rough strength estimate. I want to be able to dry tool on it too.Put hinges on the bottom and use chain to attach it to the wall. I've even seen people use counter weights in the back to assist when changing angles. One wall and about 75 links of chain to adjust angle with. The best part is dialing in a route after a while and then trying the same down a link of chain or two. |
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I've seen that before but doesn't it shake when you climb? |
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I would go with 15 and 30 degrees. If you are big on bouldering you may want to go up to 45. If you use common angles it makes your layout and construction easier, but sometimes something in between makes more sense because of the existing faming you are attaching to. |
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Anyone tried making a Moon Climbing School Room wall? The plan is so great (minus the sometimes using metric, sometimes using english *shudder*) and it looks like a lot of variation possibilities. I'd love to make one, but I don't have a place yet where I can. |
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Woodchuck ATC wrote:2 inch is fine. I used a bit longer for overhanging stuff. High quality deck screws. I'm sure I overloaded them, about a foot apart at the most, sometimes closer. Never had a board come loose or pull out. Some have been in place for over 14 years outside in humid midwest with no rot or failure. Here's a couple photos of my 2008-2009 update efforts to home wall. 'Fang shaped thing is free hanging and built of only 1/2 inch plywood. You can see the spacing of the screws.Thanks for the info.... I figured 2" would be fine, especially with a 6" spacing, but thought I'd read somewhere of 3" being used. Thanks again! |
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kachoong wrote: Thanks for the info.... I figured 2" would be fine, especially with a 6" spacing, but thought I'd read somewhere of 3" being used. Thanks again!No problem. Lots of test and trial woodwork done here to see what works best. Building indoor and home walls for friends since 1989. |
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It's just a bit bigger than a home woody, but the place I train in Columbus is awesome, and definitely is NOT a commercial climbing gym. Started as a guy's basement woody, gradually grew, and for the last couple years he's gotten enough in cooperative members' fees to rent a small garage space in a back alley. One of the best training facilities I've seen, and still has more of a home woody vibe to it. |