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By Lee from Oz
Jun 24, 2010
Toproping, absolutely. Use you own quickdraws. But lowering off? These anchors are designed for precisely that. If they're worn, they need replacing. If they wear super quickly due to traffic, consider more approriate anchors. Lee (from
By Tony T.
From: Denver, CO
Jul 11, 2010
Well said, Lee.

I think the original intent was that if the anchor looks like the one in the picture, consider using a bail biner to rap off. That is pretty scary worn, and I would hesitate even rapping off that.
By Alex A
Aug 6, 2010
Lee, lowering off vs. rap, lower off the anchors, all the dirt in your rope cuts like saw. Save the anchor and wear and tear on your rope and the anchors will last much longer, rap off. Some people are TOO lazy.
By Derek Lawrence
From: Bailey
Aug 6, 2010
Gotta go with Lee here. The anchors shown here are specifically designed to be lowered off of - not rappeled from. Why else do you think there is a gate on the top? As Lee notes, if they wear super quickly due to traffic, consider other anchors (i.e. quicklinks/chain).

Also, considering Lee signed his comment "from" - a little research shows that "Safer Cliffs Australia is a non-profit voluntary organization of climbers who maintain the safety of rock climbing areas in Australia". I would say he is far from being part of the problem....

Edited to add:
Regarding these anchors though - I do think a design flaw on Fixe's part was to design these anchors to be lowered off - but not design them to be more easily replaced. The hooks shown here though are an improvement over a style (also Fixe) that I saw in Owens River where the hook was connected to a welded ring requiring the whole setup to need to be replaced. See here
By Alex A
Aug 6, 2010
That is right, they were designed for that. The anchor will LAST LONGER! if you rap off them. 1st time I climbed at Red Rocks NV, many of top anchors where just like the photo it was sickening.

Just think about it, a climber rapping off vs lowering 100 to 200+ lb climber lowering through the the anchors over and over, vs. pulling a rope through, with all the dirt and gravel.

And I do agree that a link, chain or ss ring, are better. I still rap off to save wear and tear on anchor, someone spent a lot of time and $$$ on anchors.
By Jake N.
Sep 11, 2010
I think it's totally fine to toprope or lower from these things - as long as YOU are the one that will replace the anchors when they are worn - long before they get to this point. If not, just rappel - it's actually really easy and safe, there isn't a good reason not to. We can't forget that people die doing this sport.
By Bob Dobalina
Jun 24, 2011
Regardless, you should strive to rap whenever possible. It makes the anchors last a LOT longer, and your belayer can do other things.
By Chris Zeller
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 28, 2012
Yes, rap off anchors. The problem with lowering and toproping off anchors should be obvious from the picture irregardless of what you think they were designed for. There is no one who carries the responsibility to replace these anchors even when they "should be replaced". They only get replaced out of the goodness of someone's heart. So, have a heart and don't abuse the anchors, and they will last longer.
By mushroom
Mar 9, 2013
@boulder irregardles is not a word.
By M Sprague
From: New England
Nov 8, 2014
Lots of noobish opinions here or ones influenced by outdated considerations. Yes, rapping will save some wear, but these kinds of anchors are designed to be lowered off, and the installers intend you to do so. It is simpler, faster, and, assuming you don't have a moron for a belayer, safer. The way to deal with your concerns about wearing them out is to contribute to anchor replacement, either replacing them yourself if you have the knowledge or contribute some dollars to those who do. Your local climber's association can usually get the gear at a better price than an individual, so even if you are going to do the work, having the money go through the group can often be more efficient.
Photo 15 of 25
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DON'T TOP ROPE OR LOWER OFF OF FIXED ANCHORS, too many lazy morons, it's your life on the line, too.

Submitted By: Alex A on Mar 27, 2010
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