El Malpais Rock Climbing
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Elevation: | 6,960 ft |
GPS: |
34.8721, -107.88679 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 26,231 total · 149/month |
Shared By: | David Baltz on Nov 9, 2009 |
Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
Access Issue: Permit Required For Climbing in El Malpais National Monument
Details
Per the NPS Title 36 Code of Federal Regulations ("36 CFR"), section 1.5, ( nps.gov/elma/learn/manageme…) a permit is required for climbing within El Malpais National Monument:
Climbing is defined in 36 CFR as: "Ascending or descending rocks or boulders with or without the aid of equipment including, but not limited to, ropes, anchors, bolts, and picks, pitons, and related equipment."
Section 1.5 states:
"Rock Climbing: Climbing is prohibited anywhere within the monument, including caves and lava tubes, unless
otherwise authorized by a permit from the Superintendent.
Determination: The management of the Monument recognizes many of the areas where climbing could occur
have significant cultural value to neighboring Native American Tribes and climbing activities may conflict with
cultural activities and sacred sites which the Monument was, in part, established to protect. The cliff areas are
composed primarily of sandstone, which by its nature is extremely fragile, brittle, highly fractured, and is not
considered compatible with public climbing activities. Climbing activities would place those involved (as well as
those using the trails directly below the cliff faces) at high risk of personal injury or death since vertical surfaces of
sandstone could fail under the weight of a climber. Climbing will also damage the rock surfaces and potentially
threaten the irreplaceable cultural resources."
Climbing is defined in 36 CFR as: "Ascending or descending rocks or boulders with or without the aid of equipment including, but not limited to, ropes, anchors, bolts, and picks, pitons, and related equipment."
Section 1.5 states:
"Rock Climbing: Climbing is prohibited anywhere within the monument, including caves and lava tubes, unless
otherwise authorized by a permit from the Superintendent.
Determination: The management of the Monument recognizes many of the areas where climbing could occur
have significant cultural value to neighboring Native American Tribes and climbing activities may conflict with
cultural activities and sacred sites which the Monument was, in part, established to protect. The cliff areas are
composed primarily of sandstone, which by its nature is extremely fragile, brittle, highly fractured, and is not
considered compatible with public climbing activities. Climbing activities would place those involved (as well as
those using the trails directly below the cliff faces) at high risk of personal injury or death since vertical surfaces of
sandstone could fail under the weight of a climber. Climbing will also damage the rock surfaces and potentially
threaten the irreplaceable cultural resources."
Description
The El Malpais climbing area extends for twelve miles along Hwy 117 on the easern edge of the lower Grants lava flow from which the name was taken. The climbing is on soft sandstone and is comparable in quality to the Garden of the Gods in Colorado Springs. The area was first explored, starting in the Fall of 1975, by David Dahrling and David Baltz who had established thirteen moderate trad routes by December of 1976. Further action in the late '70s by Paul Horak, Mark Dalen, Charlie Ware led to additional routes, as well as visits by such out-of-state luminaries as Andrew Embick, and Earl Wiggins. Because of the intimidating nature of many of the lines, the area has seen very limited development since, in spite of the enormous potential. The vast majority of the established routes are crack climbs, entirely unlike the uniform cracks of the Indian Creek variety, but of a more varied and technical nature. Due to the soft rock, bolts and other fixed protection are rarely encountered, but nuts and cams work well. There is also excellent bouldering, the approaches are short--at most fifteen minutes from the car--and the climbing season runs from February through November.
One note about local ethics:
The Malpais has traditionally been a 'ground up' area. What few bolts and fixed pins that exist were placed on the lead. Due to the soft nature of the rock, the wilderness area partially covering the major walls, and Acoma reservation, sport routes are strongly discouraged.
One note about local ethics:
The Malpais has traditionally been a 'ground up' area. What few bolts and fixed pins that exist were placed on the lead. Due to the soft nature of the rock, the wilderness area partially covering the major walls, and Acoma reservation, sport routes are strongly discouraged.
Getting There
Drive west on Interstate-40 from Albuquerque to the Hwy 117 exit four miles short of Grants. Drive south on Hwy 117 for 4 miles until past the Sandstone Bluffs Overlook turnoff. The first few miles are part of the Acoma Reservation and marked 'No Trespassing' even though much of the area is public land (National Monument and designated wilderness). As one approached the largest natural arch in the state, a sign will mark the beginning of unrestricted climbing.
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