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Routes in Sunshine Wall
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26th Letter, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Airborne Froth T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Arch Nemesis T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Astro Turkey T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Buckshot T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Coppertone T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Deception Past T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Don't Mess with My Thing S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Equinox T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Everything Just Feels Like Rain S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Fallen Angels T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Far Reaches T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Forrest Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R |
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Four Friends T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Foxton Shuffle S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Fred the Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Gonzo's Lament T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Interceptor T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Keep on Slabbin' in the Free World S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Knives Out S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Meat Cleaver, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Moot Point T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Muddy Past T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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New Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Promised Road T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Riders on the Storm T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rip Van Winkle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Squatter's Rights T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Standard Route T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Turkey Foot Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Uncle Sam's Jam T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Unknown 10d T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Wear Cattle T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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What Price Glory T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 170 ft (52 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Chris Reveley |
| Page Views: | 2,464 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Aaron Martinuzzi on Jan 31, 2010 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
2023 info: jeffco.us/1531/Alerts-Closures
The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates: jeffco.us/open-space/parks/…
Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.
The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates: jeffco.us/open-space/parks/…
Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.
Description
A really fun two-pitch climb that initially runs parallel to the the one-pitch route Deception Past, Fallen Angels starts in a shallow, licheny, left-facing, left-leaning corner about 10 feet left of two pine trees that are very close to the wall. Its second pitch ascends an obvious, right-facing corner through the roof above.
P1. Lieback the corner for a couple moves before moving to the face and a thin crack above. From here, climb toward a diminutive white pine beneath a roof, where some pro can be had. Sack up and make your way into the crux seam, clipping two bolts along the way to lower-angle ground. Belay off some webbing and trad gear at a decent stance beneath a bulge, 5.10b, ~ 80'.
P2. Climb through the bulge, and a second one, to gain a very shallow, right-facing corner (RPs, offsets helpful) and climb the face around the crack until you're in the base of the big corner. Stem, fingerlock, and lieback your way up the awesome corner until the roof forces you to escape left to a ledge with bolts, 5.10a/b, ~ 90'.
Rappel from these anchors to a second set at the top of Deception Past, from which a second rappel can be made to the ground.
P1. Lieback the corner for a couple moves before moving to the face and a thin crack above. From here, climb toward a diminutive white pine beneath a roof, where some pro can be had. Sack up and make your way into the crux seam, clipping two bolts along the way to lower-angle ground. Belay off some webbing and trad gear at a decent stance beneath a bulge, 5.10b, ~ 80'.
P2. Climb through the bulge, and a second one, to gain a very shallow, right-facing corner (RPs, offsets helpful) and climb the face around the crack until you're in the base of the big corner. Stem, fingerlock, and lieback your way up the awesome corner until the roof forces you to escape left to a ledge with bolts, 5.10a/b, ~ 90'.
Rappel from these anchors to a second set at the top of Deception Past, from which a second rappel can be made to the ground.
Location
Fallen Angels ascends a shallow, left-facing, left-leaning corner about ten feet left of two pines that are immediately in front of a a cleaner, left-facing corner. It appears a bit lichen-y, but the climb leaves the dihedral quickly. The first crux of the route is identified by locating two bolts left of a seam about 40 feet up the wall. The second pitch climbs the large, right-facing corner at the left margin of the large roof system in the middle of the wall.
Protection
Bust out the small stuff for this route. P1 goes on microcams - TCUs/C3s from 00 up - and RPs, and the first part of P2 takes small cams and offset micronuts. The finishing corner protects well with nuts - there are a placements for a #2 and #3 Camalot on P2, but one could easily rack only micro cams and nuts for this climb.
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