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Trad Rack

Original Post
Brooks Henry · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 685

I am a climber just assembling my rack and would like to know what else I should get in addition to what I have below, Thanks.

BD Cams: 1 and 2
WC Rockentrics 7,8,9
BD Nuts 1-10
WC Rocks 11-13
5 Nylon runners
1 double length dynex runner
2 20ft peices of webbing
rope
belay device
helmet
2 harnesses
7 quickdraws
1 extendable draw
3 locking biners
3 racking biners
nut tool
and an old figure 8 belay device

grant.rudd · · boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 30

First suggestion would be more cams. at least bd .5 through 3, and that should get you up almost any single pitch route in the lower grades. then start going smaller and bigger, and doubling once you get the money/can justify buying more gear.

i also prefer cordalettes to webbing for anchors. much easier to work with IMO.

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,665

You need a #3 camalot and should consider a few smaller cams of one sort or another.

Matthew Carlson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 0

Just go climbing and if you end up ever thinking "man that would be way less sketchy with ______" buy it when you get home.

cjdrover · · Watertown, MA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 355

grant.rudd is right on. I started with BD 0.5, 0.75, 1 and 2. Next purchases were 0.4 and 3, then finally the 0.3 and 4 and the set of C3's. Whether or not you need doubles depends on what kind of rock you climb, and whether or not you have a partner with a rack also. Ditto about cordelettes, too.

The one thing that comes to mind while your reading your list is to pick up some more lockers. I usually climb with 4-6 per climber (2 for using ATC guide, 1-2 with prusik cords, 1-2 with each cordelette). You also never know when you're going to drop one!

While on the topic, pick up some pieces of cord for Prusiks and make sure you know how to use them. IMHO, this is an absolute MUST before taking on anything you cannot lower from (i.e. multipitch). (And still a really good idea even for single pitch routes).

Other than that I think its mostly personal preference. I prefer all extendable/"alpine" draws in the summer and rarely bring any quickdraws (though I use those in the winter).

Happy climbing!

sunder · · Alsip, Il · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 805

A Basic Rack should consist of the following for leading... I used this setup for a couple of years.

BD Cams #.5 to #3
Full Set of Nuts (get 11 to 13 you will need them)
Hexs Upper sizes
25-30 non locking beiners (I used wire gates, to cut down on weight)
3-5 Locking bieners
2-4 48" slings
6-8 24" slings you can use quick draws instead.. There are benifits of 24" runners instead
25' of 7mm cordalette for anchors.
Metolius PAS... Better that a daisy chain..IMO

if your TopRoping.. Tons of webbing 2x 30', 1x 40'..

Others: rope, helment, nut tool, belay device, bag, chaulk bag, and "balls" for when you scare the shit out of your self on a lead.

You can leave the figure 8 at home... unless your just rappealling with gloves... Use your atc instead.

Your almost there with your trad rack!!!

Make sure to head out with people that climb trad alot.. you will learn a lot from them and it will help keep you safe!

Afterwards
BD Cams #.3, #.4, #4, #5
double up on BD Cams #1 & #2
nuts (double up on the middle bd stoppers(5-10) or get a set of Metoilus nuts
couple more beiners
Then you will be able to take on just about any thing.

cjdrover · · Watertown, MA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 355
Matthew Carlson wrote:Just go climbing and if you end up ever thinking "man that would be way less sketchy with ______" buy it when you get home.
<- Story of how I ended up with a set of tricams.
sunder · · Alsip, Il · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 805
Matthew Carlson wrote:Just go climbing and if you end up ever thinking "man that would be way less sketchy with ______" buy it when you get home.
This is how i ended up with a rack that i can climb three straight pitches with.. Now i just need a 200m rope... Hmmmmm

Travis Weil · · Leavenworth, WA · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 0

I would say get some more biners and use those runners to make extendable draws. I have found i could always use more biners and runners.

saxfiend · · Decatur, GA · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 4,221
Kevin Brooks Henry wrote:I am a climber just assembling my rack and would like to know what else I should get in addition to what I have below, Thanks.
Based on your other post, I would say this: Slow down! Forget about buying gear and focus on getting some experience on real rock. You said you're 14; you've been climbing for 3-4 months; and you've done all your climbing in the gym. What's the big rush?

I think the best thing for you now is to hook up with someone who's got a lot of experience leading outdoors (your dad, maybe?) and climb with them. You'll not only learn the difference between 25' climbs on plastic vs. 80-100' routes on real rock; you'll also get to see gear placements and anchors close up and learn what works where. And you'll get a chance to decide what gear you like and what you don't like before you buy your own rack.

You've got years ahead of you, so just relax and take your time on getting into trad leading.

JL
Derek W · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 20

I love me some tri-cams too. I use them on almost every climb it seems.

and more runners and wire gates are great too, i usually don't take draws on trad climbs anymore.

cjdrover · · Watertown, MA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 355
saxfiend wrote: Based on your other post, I would say this: Slow down! Forget about buying gear and focus on getting some experience on real rock. You said you're 14; you've been climbing for 3-4 months; and you've done all your climbing in the gym.
Hmmm, so I wasn't aware of this when I offered the above advice. I 100% agree with saxfiend. I'm afraid that you aren't going to listen to that though, so let me offer this:

Just because something works once or twice or even ten times doesn't mean its right. Climbing is one of those things where you can get away with doing things wrong for a while, and probably not even realize it. When the shit hits the fan, though, it usually involves what I'll call "skeletal realignment". Seriously, you make a mistake leading trad and odds are good you won't live to make another. Be careful and take it slow!!!
Jason Wiggins · · Draper, UT · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 0
Matthew Carlson wrote:Just go climbing and if you end up ever thinking "man that would be way less sketchy with ______" buy it when you get home.
Best advice I have seen. This is how my rack evolved from first lead to now. Right on! Maybe you could add... Pick a climb you want to do. Add pieces to the rack to reach you goal safely!
Brett B. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 20

+1 for more experience following.

You really need experience on REAL rock before you start leading gear protected climbs otherwise you can end up dead or stuck calling rescue (if you are even within cell range) really quick.

In addition to the above mentioned items rap rings not all Trad routes have handy rappelling anchors on them or a nice top out. More importantly a good belayer that you can trust.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Beginning Climbers
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