2009/2010 Colorado Ice Conditions
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Just got back from a ski/sled trip to Wolf Creek Pass, and while I didn't do any climbing this time, I scoped it out pretty good. The only thing I saw that I would consider in shape to climb was Alpha Male, although the top half was a big pillar instead of a sheet, and it looked really hard, probably 5+ or 6. All the other ice I managed to see was not fully formed or just looked soft and sketchy. The west side of the pass is looking much better than the east, Chain Station was a sloppy mess. If anyone has info that is contradictory, I would love to know. |
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Most routes in Officer's Gulch are in and avalanche danger is low (as of last Friday 1/1/10. There is minimal snow (< 5") on the approaches and also minimal snow above the climbs. Climbed the Shroud on Wednesday and it was in fat (3+, 4- conditions depending on the line). |
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Climbed on the 2nd flatiron Monday morning. Call the Copps was not well formed, but we still found enough (sn)ice to fill a few hours before work. |
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Yesterday, 1/8/10, Silk Road was in "okay" with less ice compared with photos on the site from 1/07. The bottom 150' was melting pretty decent. Mostly snice. Lots of smearing crampons on rock. Front point(s) took a beating. The left finish seemed fragile enough that my very experienced partner didn't hop on it. We finished right which was still challenging. |
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We thought about giving NE face of Notchtop a run, but there appeared to be a ton of unconsolidated snow obscuring most of the ice pitches. I thought I could make out a fracture line from a recent avalanche, but it was hard to tell. In any case, we changed our plans and just hiked up Flattop for grins. |
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Nice, E |
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Has anyone been out to the short ice climbs near Moffit Tunnel? |
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Jason Gilbert wrote:Has anyone been out to the short ice climbs near Moffit Tunnel? Are they in, hows the hike?Yeah we were up there about a month ago and the ice was pretty good. A little wet in the center. The approach is like 15 minutes. Can't beat that. |
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BoCan lower falls are beat to death. I think you could leave the tools at home and still lead. Someone's funny OSHA line about the ladder is appropriate here. |
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Martha this past Saturday was leaner than spring conditions. Little to no ice in the first two pitches, a body length on the third, none on the fourth and the finish had enough to take two screws. The snow was fun and consolidated in some areas, and a sugar, sloughing, mess in others. Still a fun outing. |
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Good climbing with you Jim. Jim enjoying good styrofoam neve on the second pitch. Jim following the fourth pitch, which was pretty thin but loads of fun. The "crux" pitch which offered up some decent pick placements and fun stemming moves on the rock. Just to say we did... Good ice-bouldering was found on the decent down the camel Couloir. Things actually looked pretty decent up there. The second pitch on Alexander's looked good, thin above that though. Columbine and Peacock were definately in, and the Loft ice is looking pretty damn good and the bowl above it a little less threatening. Cheers. |
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How was the snow in the wide part exiting Martha at the top of the couloir? |
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Chris, |
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Kevin Landolt wrote:Chris, The exit was just easy snow climbing. Plenty filled in. I dug a quick hasty-pit up there and no slab was visible, it was actually quite consolidated and the traveres and decent of the Camel Couloir was pretty painless.Thanks Kevin! |
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Officer's Gulch - less than typical snow levels. 1" fell today. |
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Has anyone been up to, or taken a close look at N. Face of Notchtop recently. The avalanche danger has moderated for the time being, and hopefully there has been a little freeze/thaw on the crux pitch. |
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Timberline Falls in Loch Vale is in climbable shape. The main flow is 100' of WI3 and the right side is two bulges of about the same rating. Both can be TRed with a 70, maybe a 60 if you're more clever with anchors than we were. Nice ice, nice setting, modest approach. |
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Brad White wrote:Has anyone been up to, or taken a close look at N. Face of Notchtop recently. The avalanche danger has moderated for the time being, and hopefully there has been a little freeze/thaw on the crux pitch. Any info. would be appreciated.Lots of snow was covering the ice a week ago. You could only see a sliver of ice in the middle. I'd like to see a photo of what it looks like now as well. |