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Östkante aka Pantokratoras Ridge
5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British PG13
Avg: 3 from 10
votes
Routes in Doupianifels
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Aber Muckl! S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Daedalus S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Green Light (a.k.a. "Start Shot" - Startechuss) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Isidora S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Kali Nikta S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Nightmare S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ostria S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Regenpfeiler T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Südweg T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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Without Reservation S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Östkante aka Pantokratoras Ridge T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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δρεπάνι S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Dietrich Hasse and Heinz Lothar Stutte - 17 August 1976 |
| Page Views: | 2,483 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Brian in SLC on Dec 15, 2009 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
Classic line up the East Ridge. Great position, good views, tightly bolted crux, runout easier sections.
Pitch 1: scramble up the easy ridge with 3 protection bolts. 5.4 40m.
Pitch 2: up ridge passing two bolts in 25 meters. 5.5.
Pitch 3: Either traverse straight left on big holds to a groove (5.8ish) or angle up passing a bolt to the base of a shallow trough (5.7ish). Finish up groove, passing several trees, to belay. 2 bolts in 25m.
Pitch 4: Crux pitch. Climb up steep rock and some large cobbles. Tightly bolted for the area. 5 lead bolts in 35m. 5.10a or 5.8+/A0.
Neat summit with great views.
Pitch 1: scramble up the easy ridge with 3 protection bolts. 5.4 40m.
Pitch 2: up ridge passing two bolts in 25 meters. 5.5.
Pitch 3: Either traverse straight left on big holds to a groove (5.8ish) or angle up passing a bolt to the base of a shallow trough (5.7ish). Finish up groove, passing several trees, to belay. 2 bolts in 25m.
Pitch 4: Crux pitch. Climb up steep rock and some large cobbles. Tightly bolted for the area. 5 lead bolts in 35m. 5.10a or 5.8+/A0.
Neat summit with great views.
Location
The very obvious and dramatic East Ridge of Doupianifels. Start right at the toe of the ridge with a low angle scramble. Rappel route.
We did manage, in a juicy rainstorm, to rappel the route in 4 30 m rappels, but, I seem to recall we used anchors to climber's right for the last two rappels and ended up in the trees/weeds to the climber's right of the east ridge.
We did manage, in a juicy rainstorm, to rappel the route in 4 30 m rappels, but, I seem to recall we used anchors to climber's right for the last two rappels and ended up in the trees/weeds to the climber's right of the east ridge.
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