Type: Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 900 ft (273 m), 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Greg Mionske and Roberto Gonzalez-Pita, Dec 5, 2009
Page Views: 4,907 total · 28/month
Shared By: Greg Mionske on Dec 6, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

The route starts at broken rock ledges on the right and then heads up a snow/ice filled corner. Once you reach the icefall (ice crux) on your left, begin to ascend, pull a small roof onto another fall and take the narrow gully to more ice and a big ledge. Walk right on the big ledge to a mixed section. Climb the left crack system (mixed crux) to an easier angle and then proceed upwards on moderate ice. Belay to the left. Climb two ice steps to a steeper fall with an optional rock/ice chimney. Unrope and follow the gully up and right. Then trend left on easy terrain to reach the ridge.

Location Suggest change

This route is located to the right side of the main rock buttress (far right of The Road route). Hike from Echo Lake up the Chicago Creek trail until you reach the first Chicago Lake. Cross the valley/lake and head up to the main rock buttress. See photos for route topo.

Descent: From the ridge, hike east to the saddle and Mt. Evan's Road. Take the road all the way back (7 miles) or after mile marker 4 follow snowshoe trails back to Echo Lake.

Protection Suggest change

5 screws & light alpine rock rack.

Photos

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