Indian Creek OW suggestions
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I'm planning a wide creekend soonish. Its harder than I thought finding OW's on mountain project. Do you guys have any suggestions for sweet OW in the 9-10 range. Here's what I got so far: |
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Try Green Eggs and Ham (I think) on the left side of 2ed meat. |
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If you wanna bleed, get on Monster Truck on 4X4... |
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Pigs in a Slot, Supercrack Buttress. I only did the first bit to the chains, but the upper part looks really sweet. There aren't any anchors up top though, so you need to swing around the corner to the Gorilla Crack anchors. |
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Monster Truck is most definitely not in the 9-10 range. Though a pretty wild looking route. |
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Try Pirate Treasure on the Resivoir Wall, it's in the Bloom guidebook. Starts just rt. of middle crack, on a chossy rt. facing corner, then goes behind the giant block that middle crack splits... you'll find a sweet hand crack in the chimney and end at Metolius Rap hangers. P2 takes on the wild fist crack that goes to OW and then a crazy chimney finish. It's pretty adventurous for a 2 pitch line. Otherwise, I'd say go check out the Posiedon Adventure on Lighthouse Tower right above the Big Bend bouldering area, easy approach and southern exposure make it a great route this time of year. Enjoy. |
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The boulder at the base of Reservoir Wall has a good "warm-up" offwidth. |
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Big Baby @ Battle of the Bulge. |
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Herb wrote:Big Baby @ Battle of the Bulge.Uh...I might wait and let my measly OW skills blossom a little more before jumping on that nightmare ;) I might get on Big Guy first and see how that goes. I've heard its a little easier. |
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Herb wrote:Big Baby @ Battle of the Bulge.That Herb guy is a total jerk. ha! Big Guy was kind of my intro to OW at the creek. I would say it is significantly easier than Big Baby. If you are on Way Nutter and Desire, give the Serrator a look. It gets a 5.11- but only has 1 stopper move not too far off the deck. Though the runout up top may leave you a bit sketched if you are not used to the wide. Hole in the Wall at Battle of the Bulge (further around than Big Baby, but not as far as Crack Attack) is a 5.11 mostly hand crack but is in a tight enough slot that you are hand jamming with one hand and OWing with the rest of your body. pretty blue collar. I hadn't done it til this season and thought it was fun. |
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Desire at the Way Rambo Wall is an excellent route to practice hand/fist stacking.
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Desire is a great stacking route. Check out P1(10 or maybe 10+) and 2 (5.11 straight in #6 camalot splitter) of David at Technicolor. Worth the effort overall. Good anchors and room to spread out at ledge on top of p1. |
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Big Guy on Scarface is great |
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I just put up a new route on the wall to the left of "the Wall" that goes at 10+ maybe 11. Its called "I am the Liquor", The first pitch is easy 9 and gets you to the bottom of the route proper. There is 1 bolt to protect tipped out #6 camalot placements, the route gets gradually smaller to #2 camalots. You probally want at least 3 of each size from #6 - #3 with 1 #2. The second pitch is 150 ft. We rapped to the ground on 2 70m ropes. Park as for the Wall and hike up the talus to the base of the cliff above the mine. Look for a prominent looking J crack formation with a roof. We installed a 3 bolt anchor.... Have fun and let me know if you like the route, Thanks! |