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Looking for some Beta on good sport climbs in the area

Original Post
CA3 Martin · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 5

Headed out to San Francisco for a week or so at Christmas. Looking for Beta on any good climbing within 250 miles of of SF. Sport climbing 5.9 to 5.11. Would like to make it up to the redwoods as well. Any tips would be awesome.

Also anyone know if Moonstone beach can be climbed in late December?

J. Albers · · Colorado · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 1,926

SF, as in, San Francisco, correct?

The problem with Dec./Jan. is that you have only one pass open (Hwy. 50) that gets you to the eastside of the Sierra and Bishop, and this puts it at 360 miles. Thus, for under 250 miles, you are limited to one good area that time of year. There are a bunch of crags on volcanic rock near Sonora. The only one that meets your 5.9-5.11 criteria well is called Table Mountain.

mountainproject.com/v/calif…

There are a lot more routes there than are on MP, but there is a guidebook and you can pick that up in any REI in the Bay Area. Also, some of the crags at Table Mtn., specifically the Grotto, will probably be a little cold in Dec. Things like the Farside though, will be nice and warm (potentially even hot). The Farside has mostly easy to hard 5.10 routes. If you go, just look the F out for poison oak. Unless it gets sprayed by locals, its everywhere. I should mention, that if you were into trad, then your options would be greatly expanded upon.

Redwoods you can see pretty easily by driving north across the GG bridge to Muir Forest (its a quick drive).
Best.

CA3 Martin · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 5

Thanks for the info, SF = San Francisco, and I might have to expand my mileage range a bit.

Rough · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2004 · Points: 1,537

Everyone always mentions Table Mountain. It is like a sure fire response, and rightly so, it is a great area, but don't think that it is the only good sport climbing around.

Mt St Helena outside of Calistoga has exactly what you are looking for with a lot less driving. Two "major" areas on either side of Highway 29 have exactly what you are looking for. For what you requested, the two cliffs I would recommend on the north side:

The Bubble: mountainproject.com/v/calif…

The Bear: mountainproject.com/v/calif…

On the South side you can go to:
Table Scraps: mountainproject.com/v/calif…

Table Rock has another 50 routes including multiple (including Multipitch in your requested grade range). It is not on MP or in any guide. If you would like more info on the area, also known as DTSA, email me.

So in summary, Sonora / Table Mountain is great. From SF it is a lot further drive than other areas like MSH that have quality sport routes that are often overlooked.

Now the kicker, once you are done climbing in MSH, if you bring a change of cloths you can hit any number of the world class wineries in Napa on the way out. For low key, stop by V. Sattui Winery right on the East side of Highway 29 back towards Napa. Cool grounds, low key deli, great wine, a good chill place to go after a day of climbing. Hell just being in the Napa Valley is awesome if you love wine.

Other cool places nearby:
- Castle Di Amorosa - Winery and castle with fun tour of torture chamber etc..
- Old Faithful - Geyser located in Calistoga that is cool.
- Wine Train which leaves from Napa.
- Sonoma town square - Great dining and shopping

That should get you going. Join the crowds at Table Mountain or explore a cool area with a lot of great climbing and a lot of new routes then finish off with the Napa. Its an easy choice IMO.

Rick Shull · · Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV · Joined Sep 2006 · Points: 3,015

Moonstone beach can be perfect in December...or it can be swept by rogue waves and pounded by rain, it just depends on the storms. Between storms, daytime highs can be in the 60's and the rock dries very quickly. I've climbed there after an inch of rain fell overnight and the next day most of the rock was good to go by 10 or 11 AM. Inland, there is sport climbing at Marble Caves, and Cecilville bluffs. Both are high quality limestone that is usually too hot to climb on in the summer but can be great in the winter. Once again, it depends on the storms, but often Cecilville can be prime in December and January. Both of these areas have 10's and 11's. There is a guidebook available in the gear shops of Eureka and Arcata that has the most current beta. There is also Land of the Lost, which has about 50 sport routes ranging from 5.6-13b but the access gate is locked during the wet season to protect the Port Orford cedars from getting root rot which is caused by an organism that clings to car tires and boots. In the winter, you can hike or ski the mile or so to the crags, if the weather is clear. I have climbed at LOTL numerous times in December and early January but once again, if there are storms, one could be shut out for days.

munge · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 26

two words

Pin nacles

Ian G. · · PDX, OR · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 280

Table Mountain is good, as is Mt. St. Helena, but the best bang for the buck in terms of convenience and quality is Castle Rock. Specifically, the waterfall wall. If you only have a day, head there. IMO it provides a more unique experience than climbing at the Bear (which is awesome) or Table Mtn.

Only problem: rain. Can't climb at Castle for a few days after rain.

Frank Sosa · · Washington · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 20

How about the limestone at trinity aretes?! Or the gneiss at so-so grotto? I seen it. I climbed it. And it was good. Go there.

In the summer time its super easy to obtain a free bag of green biscuits if you make friends in willow creek, down the road...for those who like baking and that sort.

Frank Sosa · · Washington · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 20

Also- for those who climb so-so grotto...

Someone needs to clean and bolt that tall 10+ looking line to the viewers left of the GIANT roof, on the extremely obvious arete. That would be one of the most classic routes there dude. Tall, exposed, and just simply sick. If it's not done by my next trip there in 2011 then i'll be gettin my hands dirty. Thats one of those rare routes thats worth srubbing moss off, even when its gunna grow back. You who have been there- You know what im talkin 'bout!

Frank Sosa · · Washington · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 20

Also- for those who climb so-so grotto...

Someone needs to clean and bolt that tall 10+ looking line to the viewers left of the GIANT roof, on the extremely obvious arete. That would be one of the most classic routes there dude. Tall, exposed, and just simply sick. If it's not done by my next trip there in 2011 then i'll be gettin my hands dirty. Thats one of those rare routes thats worth srubbing moss off, even when its gunna grow back. You who have been there- You know what im talkin 'bout!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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