grading a climb by the single hardest move

Has anyone seen Where the Wild Things Are? Looks pretty cool, maybe the answer to this thread is subliminally available in the movie, or Zombie land,

Buff Johnson wrote:I did see Zombieland.

Good for you, Buff; we had the pleasure of seeing it too. You gotta see at least one decent zombie movie before Halloween, don't ya? I give it 8 stars. Woody Harrelson was great in it!



I swear I've seen this same scene a few times growing up in LA. Baseball bats, and real live zombies were so in.

That 8a thread is kinda intersting, but mostly proves that "Jens" is not a very good listener. Its also obivous that nobody in the thread has done any hard multipitch climbing.

Most multi-pitch free routes that are at the limit of the FFA are worked as individual pitches. In other words, if Tommy's goal for the day is to work pitch 28 of Mescalito, he isn't going to climb free from the ground to the top of p. 27 and then go to work. He's gonna figure out the most efficient way to get to the top of p. 27 well rested, if that means rapping in from the top, or stashing a bunch of food & water & jugging up the day before. He will have opportunities to work the pitch when he's relatively fresh, and those experiences will inform his opinion of the difficulty. And if at some point he links the entire route in one day, p. 28 will feel about 10 times harder than it did when he rapped in, but he won't allow that to influence the grade.

Some, but not all, multi-pitch routes have soft pitches. IMO, this is because of fear caused by increased exposure, and the overgripping & lack of commitment/trust that comes with it.

Mike Anderson wrote:3. Is pure democracy a desirable political structure?

Our Founding Fathers referred to democracy as "mobocracy" and "mob rule" and where 51 people can take away the rights of 49. They despised it. That is why this country was founded as a Constitutional Republic, NOT a democracy. Remember this one: I pledge allegiance to the flag of the United States of America and to the Republic.....

Most people have forgotten this.

Warning: Heated political thread drift might ensue.

It's a sandbagged 5.8... that one move is.

I climbed it in hobnailed boots. Bwahaha, bwa.ha.....ha.

This is out of hand!!

Nobody is saying a climb can be easier than it's one hardest move are they? That would be crazy talk.

I called my local Mayor's office and asked for Halloween if the City would be interested in dressing up all the homeless as Zombies and let them run around down town. My idea was to get them together at the Salvation Army, YMCA, etc. Feed them, have some graphics design/ art students come and paint them up and turn them loose on teh city. Most already have the clothes.

Funny thing, they never called me back..weird.

We need a more complete grading system is what this thread is pointing to. This will revolutionize grading routes and this discussion will be over. Here's what should be included:
1. Commitment grade (I - VII)
2. Overall rating
3. hardest single move
4. obligatory climbing (like Verdon, where you are told how hard the climbing between pro is so you know if you can french free the climb)
5. safety rating (G, PG, R or X)
6. length of runout if safety rating is applied

So I think a route like this one Brief Encounter on the panty wall in red rocks would go like this:

I, 5.8, 5.6, 5.5, G, 8'

There now, problem solved! You all are welcome...

Greg D wrote: this country was founded as a Constitutional Republic, NOT a democracy.

I think Mike was referring to Internet Message Boards as a pure democracy, not the US of A.

For example, Gumpy A with 6 months of Boulder Canyon toproping under their belt thinks s/he gets an equal vote on how grading works as someone with decades of experience at all types of climbing, at the entire grade spectrum, around the globe.

Don't forget that the number of ticks that drop off onto you from the scrub oaks in Red Rock(s) on the long approaches adds difficulty to the commitment factor.

Monomaniac wrote: I think Mike was referring to Internet Message Boards as a pure democracy, not the US of A. For example, Gumpy A with 6 months of Boulder Canyon toproping under their belt thinks s/he gets an equal vote on how grading works as someone with decades of experience at all types of climbing, at the entire grade spectrum, around the globe.

Oops, sorry. I was out of line. Someone should flog me, then flag me.

rickd wrote: Brawndo

Its got electrolytes!

Monomaniac wrote: Zombieland does look promising!

it rocked.

three stars!

Monomaniac wrote:Its got electrolytes!

oh man! The adds are hilarious: "Adult" Tax Return

To just completely take this in another direction: New Zombie/Skate vid

Event: Turd Merchants of Death
"Meta Skateboards 5th skate video"
What: Movie/TV Night
Start Time: Monday, October 26 at 7:00pm
End Time: Tuesday, October 27 at 2:00am
Where: Fox Theatre

To see more details and RSVP, follow the link below:
facebook.com/n/?event.php&e…

Wade Frank wrote: If that is the case, what rating would that climb get?

The climb would get rated according to how hard a 12a move feels after a ton of 11, which could be mid 12.

Sure, that depends on how much endurance a climber has, but all ratings are subjective. People will have different opinions about a 12a slab move compared to a 12a roof move, but we'll never be able to avoid subjectivity in ratings. It's simply part of the game. Rating according to entire pitch difficulty and calling is subjective based on endurance is like rating supercrack and calling it subjective based on crack technique. It absolutely is in both cases, but it's impossible to remove subjectivity from ratings.

nah bro, the grade doesn't matter at all! just climb and have fun dude and don't worry about the grade. george bush murders babies, man! could you pass the bong, brah? one love!