Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: 6,759 ft
GPS: 35.85376, -106.25848
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 699,084 total · 3,445/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Aug 17, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown

Description Suggest change

With the amount of climbing right around Los Alamos and White Rock, one would wonder why the locals would ever have to leave! From traditional basalt crags to steep or technical sport climbing, a nice diversity exists around these two towns. The various crags at White Rock have been popular for local and out of town climbers for years, with short approaches and quality basalt, with many of the cliffs being accessible for toproping (as well as leading) on bolted climbs as well as cracks. Now, The Dungeon area near Los Alamos has become the most popular area nearby, with steep overhanging climbs that appeal to the modern-day sport climber.

Getting There Suggest change

There are two different ways to get to the Los Alamos and White rock areas, one through the Jemez mountains (Highway 4) and the other by taking I-25 toward Santa Fe. The second is the most common and the quickest from either Albuquerque or Santa Fe.

From I-25, head either north or south toward Santa Fe (depending on where you are coming from), and get onto highway 285/84 toward Pojoaque. From Pojoaque head west on highway 502. Highway 502 will take you to Los Alamos or White Rock. Follow directions to specific areas from here.

Logistics

Suggest change
Camping
The best developed campground in the area is the Juniper Campground of Bandelier National Monument . It has running water but no showers or electric, and is very convenient especially to White Rock. It is closed for most of the winter.

Another option nearby is Camp May by the Pajarito Mtn. Ski Area.

Free undeveloped camping can be found west of Los Alamos and Bandelier in the Jemez. Good places to look are on the dirt roads that head north from NM-4 as you're going west from Los Alamos before you get to the Valles Caldera; and off the road to the Pajarito Ski Hill. Don't camp on National Lab or in Bandelier Monument (except at the campground).

Supplies
Good grocery stores are Smiths in Los Alamos and White Rock.
The nearest camping/climbing gear shop is in Santa Fe: Sangre de Cristo Mtn Works and REI.

Other attractions
-Bandelier National Monument hosts must-see archaelogy and a short loop hike can be completed in a couple of hours.
-The town of Los Alamos doesn't offer much of interest, although the museum documenting the history of this unique town built during WWII may intrigue those interested in history and science.
-The Valles Caldera National Preserve in the Jemez Mtns offers recreational opportunities for cross-country skiing and mountain biking, as well as the largest elk herd in the Jemez; however, access is not always simple.
-Pajarito Ski Area west of Los Alamos offers uncrowded skiing Fri-Sun, or skin up on the days it's closed.
-Mtn biking: various excellent mtn. biking trails are found near Los Alamos.

Looking for a Partner?

Suggest change
If you're in the area for a short time, and don't know anyone.. there are a couple options if you want to do some climbing but don't want to commit to a plan.

An informal toproping group loosely affiliated with the Los Alamos Mountaineers heads to a different White Rock crag and shares anchors and ropes- every Tuesday and Thursday around 5 pm from March to October. Visiting climbers and non-Mountaineering-club-members are welcome to join in. By sharing toprope anchors and ropes, you can get a lot of climbs in before dark. Just show up, bring gear if you have it, but just a harness and shoes is enough if you don't. The schedule (and directions to the crags) is posted online here:
lamountaineers.org/index.html

The Dungeon: there are almost always people climbing here on workday evenings, getting a workout on the 5.12s on the Main Wall. The climbing community here is friendly and the climbs are pumpy enough that offering a belay to an out-of-towner is a great way for the locals to have an excuse to rest. If you're a visiting sport climber who can get up 5.12s, this is probably your best option.

600 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Los Alamos & White Rock Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Los Alamos & White Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 54
Upper Kor's Crack
Trad, TR
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
 56
Cholla Wall
Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 23
Manic Crack (aka Left Twin Crack)
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 27
Flying A
Trad, TR
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 43
Wailing Banshees
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 39
Flesh-Eating Gnats
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 30
Unrelenting Nines
Trad, TR
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 49
Thorazine Dream
Sport, TR
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 78
Moat Jump
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 52
Face Off
Sport, TR
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 40
Monsterpiece Theatre
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 30
Atom Ant (aka Nuclear Ant Farm)
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 49
Gangland
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 35
Beastmaster
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 25
Loose Cannon
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Upper Kor's Crack White Rock > Potrillo Cliffs
 54
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Cholla Wall White Rock > Overlook > South/E side
 56
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad, TR
Manic Crack (aka Left Twin… White Rock > Below The Old New Place
 23
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Flying A White Rock > Playground
 27
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, TR
Wailing Banshees White Rock > Below The Old New Place
 43
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Flesh-Eating Gnats White Rock > Below The Old New Place
 39
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Unrelenting Nines White Rock > Playground
 30
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, TR
Thorazine Dream White Rock > Overlook > South/E side
 49
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport, TR
Moat Jump Dungeon > Main Wall
 78
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Face Off White Rock > Overlook > South/E side
 52
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, TR
Monsterpiece Theatre White Rock > Below The Old New Place
 40
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Atom Ant (aka Nuclear Ant F… White Rock > Below The Old New Place
 30
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Gangland Dungeon > Main Wall
 49
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Beastmaster Dungeon > 45° Boulder
 35
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Loose Cannon Dungeon > Main Wall
 25
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Los Alamos & White Rock »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

loading