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Routes in Beastie Alley
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Danger Mouse S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Fake-P, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Inner Sanctum S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Jaws S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Key to the Highway T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Lichen to Liken T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lock and Key T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Nuts and Knuckles T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Pony Express T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rusty-P, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Thunder Toad S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Unknown (crack with pin left of Unnamed 5.11) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Unnamed T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Unnamed Fissure T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
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Unnatural Attraction S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | ?, pre-1981 |
| Page Views: | 1,187 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Wenker on Sep 22, 2009 |
| Admins: | Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Access Issue: Some rocks in this area are on private property. Seasonal Raptor Nesting.
Details
The remainder are on US Forest Service land. A map detailing the public areas can be obtained from the ranger station en route to the rocks from the village of Tres Piedras.
According to Jan Studebaker: "The property line mountainproject.com/v/new_m… runs from approximately the current east corner by the access gate in a straight line over the top of South Rock to the top middle of the Chicken Heads/Mosaic Wall mount, and from there west down the mount slope to the meadow just south of the Alley climbs. Some of the most popular routes are completely on private property. There are survey markers on the top of South rock (the mysterious aluminum stake stuck in the rock) and on top of the Mosaic rock (most of the time buried in water in a pot hole.)"
An online Tres Piedras Route Guide lamountaineers.org/Tres_Pie… from LA Mountaineers has been updated with the latest access information, and should be read by all Tres Piedras climbers. Group climb leaders, and Climbing Directors (future or past) should take particular note.
The landowner requests NO fires, no trash, no chalk and "please close any gates". Basically, be a good steward of the land.
In order to nurture greater landowner acceptance of climbers, participants of group climbs are requested to organize quick clean up activities before leaving the area; this should include the climbing area as well as the access roads (trip leaders could supply plastic grocery bags). Small parties should practice "leave no trace" principles.
Seasonal Raptor Nesting:
This climbing area is shared with raptors that nest on the cliffs. Help us maintain access and please avoid climbing near active nests/ledges that raptors are using. If a raptor is disturbed during nesting season it may exhibit aggressive defensive behaviors like vocalizing or dive-bombing. If you witness this behavior, retreat from your climb immediately and find a location on a different formation or a different part of the wall far enough away from the raptors that they are no longer noticeably agitated. If they remain agitated, then please leave the area immediately.
Raptor awareness is especially important during nesting season from mid-February to late May but needs to be considered through the end of August. Please report disturbed and/or nesting raptors to the Carson National Forest the appropriate district office (see below) and share relevant information here on MP. Human-raptor encounters can have negative impacts for the birds and climbers in the area. The Cason NF wants to maintain climbing access while protecting raptor reproduction and relies on climbers to recreate responsibly and share information in order to avoid the need for formal raptor closures.
Questa Ranger District
(575) 586-0520
Camino Real (Comales Canyon) Ranger District
(575) 587-2255
Tres Piedras Ranger District
(575) 758-8678
El Rito Ranger District
(575) 581-4554
According to Jan Studebaker: "The property line mountainproject.com/v/new_m… runs from approximately the current east corner by the access gate in a straight line over the top of South Rock to the top middle of the Chicken Heads/Mosaic Wall mount, and from there west down the mount slope to the meadow just south of the Alley climbs. Some of the most popular routes are completely on private property. There are survey markers on the top of South rock (the mysterious aluminum stake stuck in the rock) and on top of the Mosaic rock (most of the time buried in water in a pot hole.)"
An online Tres Piedras Route Guide lamountaineers.org/Tres_Pie… from LA Mountaineers has been updated with the latest access information, and should be read by all Tres Piedras climbers. Group climb leaders, and Climbing Directors (future or past) should take particular note.
The landowner requests NO fires, no trash, no chalk and "please close any gates". Basically, be a good steward of the land.
In order to nurture greater landowner acceptance of climbers, participants of group climbs are requested to organize quick clean up activities before leaving the area; this should include the climbing area as well as the access roads (trip leaders could supply plastic grocery bags). Small parties should practice "leave no trace" principles.
Seasonal Raptor Nesting:
This climbing area is shared with raptors that nest on the cliffs. Help us maintain access and please avoid climbing near active nests/ledges that raptors are using. If a raptor is disturbed during nesting season it may exhibit aggressive defensive behaviors like vocalizing or dive-bombing. If you witness this behavior, retreat from your climb immediately and find a location on a different formation or a different part of the wall far enough away from the raptors that they are no longer noticeably agitated. If they remain agitated, then please leave the area immediately.
Raptor awareness is especially important during nesting season from mid-February to late May but needs to be considered through the end of August. Please report disturbed and/or nesting raptors to the Carson National Forest the appropriate district office (see below) and share relevant information here on MP. Human-raptor encounters can have negative impacts for the birds and climbers in the area. The Cason NF wants to maintain climbing access while protecting raptor reproduction and relies on climbers to recreate responsibly and share information in order to avoid the need for formal raptor closures.
Questa Ranger District
(575) 586-0520
Camino Real (Comales Canyon) Ranger District
(575) 587-2255
Tres Piedras Ranger District
(575) 758-8678
El Rito Ranger District
(575) 581-4554
Description
This route is written up in the 1981 guide and in the 1984 "Tao's Rock II" guide, but I don't know that I would have been able to find it, based on the written description, if I hadn't had the help of a long-time TP climber to point it out to me. He had climbed this route back in the days before the Thunder Toad anchors went in, so we think we have the correct line of Lichen identified here.
Start up the thin face just to the right of Thunder Toad. Get established in the wide fissures under the little roof, then head up the wide seam out the left side. If you want to do this route as 2 pitches, at about 85 feet, you can belay at the chain anchors for Thunder Toad and Danger Mouse, or ignore the bolts and build a gear anchor. From that ledge, continue slightly right, up the easier, but interesting layback seam. At about 190 feet off the ground, a nice tinaja just below the summit provides some good gear placements for an anchor.
There's some awkward 5.8 moves at the start, but the rest goes at ~5.5 or below, so it's a good easy adventure.
Start up the thin face just to the right of Thunder Toad. Get established in the wide fissures under the little roof, then head up the wide seam out the left side. If you want to do this route as 2 pitches, at about 85 feet, you can belay at the chain anchors for Thunder Toad and Danger Mouse, or ignore the bolts and build a gear anchor. From that ledge, continue slightly right, up the easier, but interesting layback seam. At about 190 feet off the ground, a nice tinaja just below the summit provides some good gear placements for an anchor.
There's some awkward 5.8 moves at the start, but the rest goes at ~5.5 or below, so it's a good easy adventure.
Location
Starts from the most westerly point of Mosaic Rock, just left of Beastie Alley.
There's no anchor on top. My source reported that in days gone by, the descent involved doing an easy gear-protected downclimb off the east side. However, having done it once, that's an awkward and unpleasant option. It's probably much easier and faster to simply downclimb P2 back to the bolted anchors and rap from there.
There's no anchor on top. My source reported that in days gone by, the descent involved doing an easy gear-protected downclimb off the east side. However, having done it once, that's an awkward and unpleasant option. It's probably much easier and faster to simply downclimb P2 back to the bolted anchors and rap from there.
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