Type: Boulder, 20 ft (6 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 979 total · 6/month
Shared By: Bjorn on Aug 17, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This problem provides good, if not immediately endearing climbing. The footholds are sparse, slick and never in the optimal location for the moves they support. Handholds are off-balance sidepulls and odd crack pod finger lock pockets. Most moves, from bottom to fluttery topout, feel insecure. From the first good topout holds, relax, breathe, and slowly climb around the blunt arete to the left. These moves are easier than the climb proper, but you're way off the ground, probably pumped and no longer over the pads. Downclimb the 5.7, broken corner to the left of the problem.

This problem would be a poor choice for a climber who sometimes sends 5.10s or has no head for highballs. A fall from higher moves, even onto pads, could have you in a cast or casts all summer. Be safe!

Location Suggest change

From the parking at the downstream side of tunnel one, walk down the well-established approach trail till it meets the water's edge. On your right, at the first clean section of the cliff, is a section of face with discontinuous crack system holds vaguely describing a tall, somewhat scary problem.

The steep blunt arete to the left may go as a significantly harder problem. Starts from cool undercling.

Protection Suggest change

At least one pad, preferably three. A spotter or three might be nice, but who's got friends?

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