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From: Poughkeepsie, NY
Feb 6, 2010
1. Of historical interest: Tweedle Dee used to be harder. The large fractured finishing bucket was created by someone practicing aid climbing who pried off a thin flake that was useless as a hand hold. Boulderers interested in experiencing the original route should simply eliminate that hold and work with the crack and rib. Also, the original route (yellow), done as a lead not a boulder problem, continues up the face rather than traversing off left into the chimney.
2. The Tweaky Crack diagram is wrong. That misnamed route stays to the right of the crack on the face. The crack is, I suppose, V0.
By Anthony Baraff
From: Paris, France
Feb 7, 2010
|Thanks again for the input. I'll make the corrections shortly. I was just going by what was written and indicated in the Greene and Russo guide "Climb the edges and crack to the left." I felt that this was substantially easier than V3 which is why I downgraded it, clearly there was another reason.|
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