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Rock Climbing Photo: Spray Cave  1. Anger Management, V11**  all good h...
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By Darryl Roth
Oct 4, 2012
The original and what seemed to be the most aesthetic boulder problem, put up at the Spray Boulder isn't diagrammed here. It starts on the "Spray Standard Left" holds and follows the obvious jugs until it is possible to drop the right hand to the one pad "Spray Prow" holds on the prow. The left hand reaches over to the next beautiful horizontal and you know how it goes from there. It's the finest set of moves on the boulder, IMHO. It's called "Always The Master".
BTW, The Head Banger was first done by Dan Durland very early on in the development of the Spray, really before anyone but he and I went there, and that wasn't the name he put to it. I've forgotten his moniker but guess he wouldn't mind.
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Spray Cave

1. Anger Management, V11** all good holds but one heinous crux crimp of death. Not sharp.
2. Spray Standard Left, B3/4** campus jugs.
3. Spray Standard Right, F3/4?** campus jugs.
4. Spray Prow, V7/8*** traverse from dihedral start with great moves to gain the overhung arete.
5. Head Banger, V7/8 * low all the way. There's also a version that off routes anything right of the crotch of the final dihedral. V9+?

There's also a Turd Line that starts crouching left of #1 on poor holds, one powerful move up to better crimps/edges and top out. Finally, starting on this line and traversing the entire lip is a difficult, but not too appealing project.

Stars assume you avoided the guano at the exit of 2, 3, 4.

Submitted By: j.jaeger on Jun 30, 2009
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