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Kind Traverse, The
V11- YDS 8A Font
Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
Type: | Boulder, Alpine, 20 ft (6 m) |
FA: | Ian Glass |
Page Views: | 3,616 total · 20/month |
Shared By: | tcamillieri on Jun 20, 2009 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Fragile Alpine Area
Details
This is a fragile alpine bouldering area and following Leave No Trace principles is important. Never stash pads. Do not alter landings, chip or glue holds, or remove or alter vegetation. Walk on hard surfaces such as boulders or established trails. Store your gear on boulders instead of dirt or vegetation. Clean up spilled chalk and tick marks and brush holds. Keep your presence low key and unobtrusive. Pack out everything you brought and anything else that shouldn't have been left there. RMNP rangers are very aware of the impact that bouldering has on this environment.
Access Issue: Closures
Details
Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31. Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
Description
This problem starts as for The Kind (originally In Your Face, then Standard Overhang - after the block was removed). However, move left along the series of crimps that ultimately deposit you into a large (jug) crack. There are several ways of topping it out that all tick in at the same difficulty.
It gets two stars because of its low-ball and ass-dragging nature.
Two cruxes:
The first crux: is getting the "pocket." It is about three moves in. There are two ways of doing it. Either shuffle your hands to negotiate a high heel hook, or do a tricky bicycle.
The second crux: There are three ways of doing this. After matching the right-facing gaston, hit the low jug. Shuffle your feet down to either to a big dynamic move to a sloper with a crimp in the back or heel hook the jug by your left hand.
Variations: Super Kind (V12) does a traverse into The Kind (originally In Your Face, then Standard Overhang - after the block was removed). You can get a knee bar at the beginning of The Kind (originally In Your Face, then Standard Overhang - after the block was removed). Low Kind (V10) skip the second crux by doing the ultimate ass dragger along the crimps that the Kind Traverse uses as feet (yes, this is easier). A V8 starts at the jug half way through the Kind Traverse.
It gets two stars because of its low-ball and ass-dragging nature.
Two cruxes:
The first crux: is getting the "pocket." It is about three moves in. There are two ways of doing it. Either shuffle your hands to negotiate a high heel hook, or do a tricky bicycle.
The second crux: There are three ways of doing this. After matching the right-facing gaston, hit the low jug. Shuffle your feet down to either to a big dynamic move to a sloper with a crimp in the back or heel hook the jug by your left hand.
Variations: Super Kind (V12) does a traverse into The Kind (originally In Your Face, then Standard Overhang - after the block was removed). You can get a knee bar at the beginning of The Kind (originally In Your Face, then Standard Overhang - after the block was removed). Low Kind (V10) skip the second crux by doing the ultimate ass dragger along the crimps that the Kind Traverse uses as feet (yes, this is easier). A V8 starts at the jug half way through the Kind Traverse.
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