Type: Trad, Mixed, Alpine, 500 ft (152 m), 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,200 total · 34/month
Shared By: Chris Sheridan on May 23, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

The North Chimney is often viewed as either that horrible, loose rock approach to The Diamond in the summer or if you're so inclined, that horrible loose snow approach to The Diamond in winter. However, in the spring this chimney forms up as a pretty decent mixed route. Broadway is a pretty amazing place to be this time of year, and rapping the Crack of Delight rappels is easy enough. The could also make an interesting start to either Kiener's or The Window.

The climbing starts out easy enough as the obvious snow gully leading up to Broadway. The climbing get progressively harder and more interesting, with the most difficult, steep, drytooling sections on the last pitch. Cut left at the end, hack through a snow flute, and flop over. Voila, you're on Broadway.

Protection Suggest change

A standard mixed route of stoppers, cams to 2 inches, a few pins, and one ice screw.

Photos

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