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Routes in Goldrush Area
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Americana Arete T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Five Card Draw S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Silver Stage S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Stone Combat S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
| Type: | Sport, 450 ft (136 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Rex Wolters (and others?) |
| Page Views: | 4,641 total · 26/month |
| Shared By: | Lee Frazer on Jun 11, 2009 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
This is a decent climb on wide slab/ramp RIGHT of the Gold Rush ice climb. It is well-protected and in a beautiful location. There is some loose rock on pitches 3 & 4. (I don't suggest climbing under other parties.)
Silver Stage starts on right side of slab; it goes for 3 pitches up slab; the fourth pitch works its way up buttress above slab.
Pitch 1 - 5.10c.
Pitch 2 - 5.8/9. (Update per Matt King: this anchor has been moved up and right about 15'.)
Pitch 3 - 5.8/9 R. This goes up a Class 3 gully (2 bolts) to short 8-10' section of 5.8/9 (2 bolts, 1 spinner) to large car size ledge - anchor's on the right side of ledge. (Update per Matt King: pitch 3/4 combo variation- 5.10: this variation starts as the original 3rd pitch, but instead of clipping the first bolt, look to the right to a bush, a vertical wall, and your first bolt. Continue up 15' past 3 more bolts, and pull right into a rightward-facing corner. From there, go straight up to the fourth pitch 2nd bolt, and continue on up. Runners will mitigate rope drag. This variation is definitely steeper and sportier than the other pitches, and I think its going to be way more fun than that original 3rd half pitch. This variation has been cleaned pretty well, but keep in mind there still may be choss that may come off. This essentially combines the 3rd and 4th pitch into one pitch.)
Pitch 4 - 5.9. From the ledge, the climb traverses right for 20', then up dihedral for 100'. It is exposed and beautiful (maybe the coolest pitch). There is loose rock in spots.
Descent: 3 rappels (with one 70m or two 60m ropes). (Update per Matt King: 4 rappels (with one 70m or two 60m ropes). There is a new rap line that raps straight down from the second pitch anchor).
Given the altitude and remoteness, this climb should not be treated like a sport climb at the local 50' crag:
- temps can change quickly up here, so dress accordingly.
- loose rock is prevalent on pitches 3-4. Therefore, helmets are a must.
Commitment:
This is Grade II for experienced multi-pitch climbers and Grade III for others (which is the original rating).
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