Friends over things, outside over inside. Will you go out with us? #OptOutside — Join Us Outside
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Rock Climbing Photo: Top of the climb preparing to rap.
Id# 106451902, 1125 x 1500px View full size
Comments on Photo Add Comment
By John Ross
From: Wasatch Front, UT
Jun 4, 2009
Always makes me nervous to see webbing threaded through bolt hangers.
From: Keswick Cumbria.UK
Jun 5, 2009
If your that nervous a climber ,and If you ever you want try these routes just take along some sport chains and add another few bolts to the belay if you want,and do let me know when you hear of a problem with the webbing.As a standard practice I do mention to take slings on these climbs so if of a nervous disposion one can add or replace anchors with new webbing or even in your case chains.
By John Ross
From: Wasatch Front, UT
Jun 5, 2009
This set up may be sufficient for what it is being used for but strength is certainly reduced. Sometimes you use what you have even if it is not ideal. Wouldn't hurt to add a quicklink to each hanger as the sharp edges of the bolt hanger CAN cut the webbing.

Worth considering from an ACA forum :

A couple things that we do to help protect webbing that's tied directly to sharp hangers are:

1) Tie the knots so there's enough tail to thread back through the hangers and place the tails between the hangers and the loaded loops of webbing. This really helps pad the working webbing and doesn't require hardly any extra webbing.

2) Attach the rope to carabiners clipped to the hangers and have all but the last person down rap off these, then the last person unclips the 'biners and raps off the webbing. Make sure to slide the webbing up the hangers and out of the way beforehand so that the loaded carabiners aren't pinching the webbing against the hangers.

Here is an interesting related study.
From: Keswick Cumbria.UK
Jun 5, 2009
Thanks for the info . These are not one pitch sport routes and are done from the ground up . We carry enough crap on our backs what with the drill ,bolts ,hammer,other normal stuff , etc etc. We have rapped back down these slabs literarily hundreds of times on webbing and believe it or not we are still alive, other climbers have also survived. As another example of no risk climbing I guess we could really go to town and chip off every sharp flake on climbs that would cut a rope IF a fall was taken. As I mentioned previously if you decide to do any of these climbs you can use any method you want to back up or set up the rappel.I personally like some adventure in climbing and risk is all part of it,or used to be before gym/sport climbing arrived on the scene. I think most climbers may get a little more nervous with the R pitches on these climbs rather than the rap system as they can do their own thing with the rap anchors. More info...if you do not like the look of the webbing then perhaps its less complicated to just leave a biner on each bolt,simple as that.Please leave good quality biners not crappy old one's..Thanks. PS Do you know you can wear the Clan Ross Kilt?
Photo 8 of 15
Avg Score   0.0 from 0 votes
Your Score   

Top of the climb preparing to rap.

Submitted By: USBRIT on Jun 4, 2009
On this route:
Persistence. (5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c )
 Printer View

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!