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Rock Climbing Photo: Y-Crack & Jam Crack Wall  Approach by heading to G...
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Y-Crack & Jam Crack Wall

Approach by heading to Garden Wall then continuing up and left. The first climb you come to should be the obvious, overhanging off-width crack (“Sgt. Pepper’s”).

A. Rovert 5.10a TR Move up the ramp a bit, then follow the brown streak to the top. Approach the base by climbing Private Pepper and moving left mid route. Alternatively, approach by rapping in from the top of “Y-Crack” (gear needed for anchor). TR – Ivan Jasinovich, Bob Little, John Merriam, 1988.

B. Why Climb? 5.10a TR. About half way between Rovert and Y-Crack. FA – unknown.

C. Y-Crack 5.9 Small to large gear. Bring a big cam (4”) for the crux. Move left at the “Y” or bail out right for an easier time. Alternatively, you can TR by rapping in from the top of the crack (bring gear and long slings to set up TR). FA – Chris Moes & Ken Klis, 1986.

D. Private Pepper 5.7 1 bolt + small to medium gear. Start at the notch between Midnight Spire and the far left side of Jam Crack Wall. FA – John Knight & Chris Manning, 2008.

E. Fester Finger 5.11 TR Starts about 15’ left of “Sgt. Pepper’s.” Very thin and very steep. TR – Hans Florine & Mike Lopez, 1987.

F. Sergeant Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Hand Jam 5.10b 1 bolt + small to large gear. A very challenging offwidth and off-balance crack. Bring your largest cam (4”+) to protect the crux. Continue up to the top by clipping one bolt and inserting gear or move left after the overhang and rappel or TR off the “Fester Finger” anchors. FA – Tobin Sorenson (solo), late ‘70s.

G. Revolver Arête 5.11 TR Stay right of “Sgt. Pepper’s” on the arête. Thin, overhanging, and off-balance. Work your way up as you try and fight the barn--door effect. Set up the TR by leading “Private Pepper” or “Sgt. Pepper’s” and then rapping down to “Revolver” anchors. TR – Ken Klis & John Knight, 2008.

H. Chimney Climbs TR Various chimney and face climbs can be top roped from the “Revolver” anchors. A bit loose, but worth checking out someday. Bring your helmet. TR – J. Knight, Matt Geyer & Ken Klis, 2008.

Submitted By: John Knight on Apr 9, 2009
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