Best Crag We've Never Heard Of

Corey Flynn wrote:Rumbling Bald in NC is another awesome place to get your crag on. Bomber granite is the medium for this NC backwater climbing area. Routes of all grades and lengths line the hillside whether you want crack slab or face

hey, not to derail this thread again but i would like to extend my apologies to all for my lame ass rant above. it seems i forgot to take off my Xenophobe™ brand Ultra-brasive Crankypants® before posting. there was some major chafing in the scrotal/taint region and i went into a sour mood. i didn't want to start some territorial hatefest. sorry bout that.

i guess the point i was making is that i don't see why posting/publishing photos of "secret" crags and not disclosing the location is such a big deal. black diamond has published tons of photos of the horn, millcreek, the hoop, etc. in ads and their catalog without any location info in the caption and i don't remember anyone having a tizzy over it. i "found" the fabled super-double-top-secret high valley bouldering area with nothing more to go on than "there's supposedly some granite bouldering in the mountains somewhere". no local told me how to get there. i just got a six pack of diet sprite and drove around some dirt roads for a few hours, following clues. i like it. it makes me feel like a pirate. or a detective, or something.

anyway, back on topic...

Right on Joe. I had the same thoughts after my post yesterday and removed my crankypants smart ass statements. Climb safe.

Tom

People, if you aren't deleting most of your posts, before you hit submit, then you just aren't trying.

funny thing about Mill Creek...guides will take you there for money, but forget about it if you want to know what the grade of a particular route is and you haven't paid your dues!!!

Milly Creeky, yes! East Coast crag has to be Shagg Crag in Maine. Absolutely one of the best sport climbing walls I've run across, anywhere. Also, Oklahoma climbing is Legit! Great Granite, Single pitch trad, some sport, untapped potential in bouldering.

Arizona: LDE, TBA

it really too bad there is no good climbing in montana

Matt Sedor wrote:it really too bad there is no good climbing in montana

Boulder ain't so bad. If I had to choose between the hipsters in Denver and the Hippies in Boulder I choose Boulder. I'm a NC transplant that now lives in Westminster (between the two). No one from Boulder has ever bothered me. Plus no one is from Boulder, they just choose to relocate there.

Moore's Wall bouldering in NC is pretty much only known to the Piedmont area of NC. The trad is well known, but the bouldering is not. It doesn't get the recognition it deserves b/c most people are heading to Boone, or Rumbling Bald to go bouldering. The bouldering at Moore's Wall is pretty amazing, but I typically always did weekend trips to Boone instead of single day trips to Moore's Wall to go bouldering.

If you are a 5.7 to 5.10- bolt chaser, you'll find out in about a year.

Derek Beitner wrote:funny thing about Mill Creek...guides will take you there for money, but forget about it if you want to know what the grade of a particular route is and you haven't paid your dues!!!

I can almost hear the gnarled old guide right now:

"Well, for gear I guess the best plan is to take about 6 or 8 of these quickdraws. They work great on this terrain.

Then what you do is climb up to that first shiny bolt and clip that. Then about 6 feet later you will come to another bolt that looks quite similar and you will probably want to clip that one to.

Then you kind of repeat the pattern, but if you get confused after that we can communicate with rope commands... no wait, you will only be about 12 feet off the ground, so I guess you can just ask me... "

Michael John Gray wrote: ADK has lots of undiscovered, and rarely climbed area's as well.

Too late, the latest Adirondack guide book outed many of the crags people were hording. Now if spring would come to the 'dacks so I can get out and visit some of these places.

Nathan Stokes wrote:Too late, the latest Adirondack guide book outed many of the crags people were hording. Now if spring would come to the 'dacks so I can get out and visit some of these places.

Brian Scoggins wrote:There's all kinds of stuff spread all over Wyoming. But most of what's worth doing is already on here. My friend John used to joke that there are ten lifetimes worth of climbing around Lander alone, the problem was schlepping the drill all the way out there, then convincing people that it was worth a longer walk than Sinks or Wild Iris.

Uhhh...shut up, Tom. That place sucks.

SteveBechtel wrote:Uhhh...shut up, Tom. That place sucks.