All Locations > Utah > Wasatch Range > Southern Wasatch > Rock Canyon > Trilogy Buttress

Shadow and Flame

Name: Shadow and Flame
Rating: 3.5

5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British

Routes in Trilogy Buttress

L › R R › L A › Z

	Along Came a Strider S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Frodo Lives S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Gollum's Column S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Lord of the Slings S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	My Precious T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Nine in Black S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Ranger Walk T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
	Return of the King S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Road to Rivendell, The TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Shadow and Flame S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Shards of Narsil S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Unknown name S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Wizardly Way S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Type:	Sport, 200 ft (61 m)
FA:	Jim and Christian Knight
Page Views:	4,869 total · 24/month
Shared By:	Perin Blanchard on Nov 24, 2007
Admins:	Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C Page Updates (admin only)

You & This Route

23 Opinions

Your To-Do List: ·

Your Star Rating:
Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change

Your Ticks:Add New Tick

-none-

Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description

An exciting route with stimulating exposure throughout, a roof that'll get your heart pumping, and a rousing, slightly runout finish over a roof with broken, thought-provoking rock. The protection is good, but with the exposure and all the slack in the rope from the beginning traverse the urge to not fall is strong.

Start from one of two belay locations: a single bolt if you climbed the 5.7 2nd pitch route, or a double-bolt belay if you climbed the 5.8 2nd pitch route. While on belay, walk across to the base of the upper wall, praying that you dont do something stupid like trip over your shoelaces and pitch down the gully to your right.

Climb over to, or up to, the first bolt (depending on your start). Clip it and traverse right and slightly up to the second bolt. At this point climbing up from the second bolt would put you on Lord of the Slings, 5.9. Continue traversing right and slightly up to the third bolt. From this point head up to the fourth bolt, then bear right and up for a weakness in the roof above you (following the left bolt line that goes to the left side of the roof puts you on Frodo Lives, 5.9).

Climbing through the roof is well protected, yet plenty stimulating. There is a bolt directly below the roof, and another above, but the bolt above the roof is out-of-reach from below. You've got to commit to getting over the roof before clipping it.

After the main roof there is another bulgy section, and finally, above the last bolt is another small roof that gets your attention. After topping out there are two bolts on top of a flat-ish rock, and to the east and down there is a spot that will take a medium size cam for backup.

Location

On the upper wall of Trilogy Buttress the lowest bolt protects the start of all of the routes. For Shadow and Flame traverse right after the first bolt for two bolts, then up one more bolt, then bear right a bit and up. The sixth bolt hanger is brown (the bolt prior to the bolt directly under the roof).

Protection

15 bolts, 2-bolt anchor with supplemental gear. Sling the first few bolts with double runners, the next few with single runners, and the bolt directly under the roof with a double runner.

If you chose to, you could reach the midpoint belay anchor on Frodo Lives by traversing left at the ledge and then break the route into two pitches.