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Rock Climbing Photo: Chicken-head belay!
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 24, 2017
By Eric Sophiea
Apr 18, 2014
Um... I don't want to be critical, but this is not an example of a good belay anchor. Several problems here. Just pointing this out in case any inexperienced climbers see it and think it's okay to put a clove-hitch into two non-locking 'biners, belay from only two heads, etc.
By Aerili
From: Los Alamos, NM
Apr 21, 2014
I think I would rather climb with the anchor-builder than the commenter here.
By Jimbo
Apr 23, 2014
I've done this very thing for 30 years. Totally fine. Once the clove is snug it's not moving on the biners, and two big chicken heads is more than adequate for a belay.
By jbak
Apr 24, 2014
Many are the times I would have been over-joyed to have such an anchor.

I have seen bigger, stronger-looking heads break. But still.
By schmeisser Schmeisser
Jun 12, 2014
opposing cararbiners=a locker in my book.
By Ted Pinson
From: Chicago, IL
Jan 15, 2016
Holy shit...is that two (non-locking) biners on a single clove hitch? The chicken-head shenanigans were one thing, but that's just ridiculous. You're lucky to be alive.
By Stu Ritchie
From: Denver
Jan 15, 2016
Give it a rest. IMHO this anchor is bomber. Plus it was fun to build!
By Guy Keesee
From: Moorpark, CA
Jan 22, 2016
Looks bomber to me... especially if its a hanging belay.

Heck its at Cochise, what do you expect?
By Michael Denman
From: Chicago, Illinois
Aug 21, 2016
Ted Pinson, STFU... the two non-lockers isn't an issue
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Dec 26, 2016
Guy...we'd love to watch Aerili try to catch your 215# frame taking a leader fall on that rig. Nothing to keep her from being launched up and off those chicken-heads, hanging belay or not.
After seeing your "classic" Devil's Lake anchor, Micheal, we understand why you consider that chicken-head anchor adequate and how fortunate you were to live to 23 years of age. While the chicken-head anchor may be fun to build it is far from multi-directional or make provisions for an upward pull once the leader climbs above it and falls. Doubt either anchor would pass muster with the AMGA or Ron Funderburke at the AAC. Next Victim!!
Rock Climbing Photo: Classic DL anchor.
Classic DL anchor.
By Mike
From: Phoenix
Jan 24, 2017
That anchor is good, and definitely preferable to that Devils Lake top-rope CF anchor in Ben Chapman's picture above. What the heck does any of that have to do with the the OP's picture?

If you don't like that anchor, you might not like climbing in Cochise Stronghold.
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Avg Score   4.4 from 5 votes
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Chicken-head belay!

Submitted By: Stu Ritchie on Mar 16, 2009
On this route:
Moby Dick (5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c )
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