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Routes in The Old Settler
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Black September T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Central Peak - West Buttress (Down/Duck) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Complete Northwest Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Easy Snow |
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Contact Zone, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Duck a L'Orange T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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East Buttress of the South Peak T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mars Western T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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South to North Traverse T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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Standard Route T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Totally Spurious T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Watchman's (Northeast) Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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West Buttress of the South Peak T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
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West Couloir T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow |
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West Face of the North Peak T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), 12 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | D. Brayshaw, J. Mason, Sept. 2006 |
| Page Views: | 1,048 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Drew Brayshaw on Mar 16, 2009 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Gates may be closed.
Details
Some logging roads have gates that are locked when active logging is occurring. Check in advance with a phone call to Lakeside Pacific, the tenure-holding forest company: 604 793 9340. Keys can generally be picked up from their Chilliwack office during normal business hours, or at the logging camp by prearrangement.
Description
This route climbs a slender buttress on the south rib of the central peak, between Duck a L'orange and Contact Zone. Begin across the gully (left of) the start of the West Buttress of the South Peak and climb polished rock with solid cracks for a pitch (5.8, same first pitch as D a L'O) to a ledge. Climb another 5.8 pitch staying right of D a L'O, along the arete above (left of) a gully. Cross the gully on the third pitch to an airy belay. Continue straight up from here for 6 pitches up to 5.10- along a blunt arete. The crux is a right-facing layback corner to a undercling roof. The last pitch of this section is a horizontal knife-edge arete. The end of the horizontal arete butts into an upper headwall that is steep and blank. Move into a left-tending gully and follow it for a pitch (runout, low-5th), then climb two final pitches up the left wall of the gully to a slopy exit around a chockstone.
Location
To descend, downclimb or rappel (4th class, 60m) north from the west-central summit into a sandy col between the central and north summit. This is the top of the 3rd class scrambling route up the Settler. Follow the sandy ramp down steeply across the west face of the north peak to gain talus below the face (much 3rd class, gritty sand on slabs and some snow in early season) then descend talus 1500' to the lake and out. Expect an all day climb.
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