Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
All Locations >
Colorado
> Denver South
> Castlewood Cany…
> Bouldering prob…
> Central City area
> Nine Lives Boulder
Nine Lives Arete
V4 YDS 6B Font
Avg: 3.5 from 28
votes
Routes in Nine Lives Boulder
|
|
Custodian, The V9 7C PG13 |
|
|
Double Dick Dyno V6 7A |
|
|
Nine Lives Arete V4 6B |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Boulder |
| FA: | Hanson, Sills, late '80s |
| Page Views: | 7,547 total · 38/month |
| Shared By: | Andy Librande on Nov 17, 2007 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Historical seasonal raptor closures with 2023 updates
Details
Per Castlewood Canyon: there is a new closure for nesting raptors this year: Five and Dime will be closed March 1st through July 31st. If you have any questions please feel free to reach out to me, Rachel Chaffee (Park Ranger) at dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.us or by phone at 303-688-5242.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Description
Located on the seclusive Nine Lives Boulder, the arete offers a great problem in an awesome location.
Beta: left hand in a tiny pocket with a drop-knee starts the problem. Move through sharp pockets to a large left-hand pinch. Put-up a high right heel-hook, and then reach for a decent slot (heel-hook is key for the static move, otherwise just launching to the slot is a ton of fun). Reach-up past the sidepull to a crimp, find feet, and throw to the back of the bulge to find something to hold onto; work your toes-up and pull the mantle. Now you have another 20 feet of easy and exciting slab climbing.
Beta: left hand in a tiny pocket with a drop-knee starts the problem. Move through sharp pockets to a large left-hand pinch. Put-up a high right heel-hook, and then reach for a decent slot (heel-hook is key for the static move, otherwise just launching to the slot is a ton of fun). Reach-up past the sidepull to a crimp, find feet, and throw to the back of the bulge to find something to hold onto; work your toes-up and pull the mantle. Now you have another 20 feet of easy and exciting slab climbing.
Location
To find this boulder, ignore the directions in the Colorado Bouldering guidebook. The approach is actually decent (compared to a lot of the other bouldering in The Wood).
Park in the West Trailhead parking lot at the North Entrance (the one just south of the port-o-potty area), and take the trail that heads towards the river/mud-cliffs. This trail goes through some switchbacks, and right after that, you come to a fork in the road. Take the path on your right (heading south) for only 15-20 feet, and you will notice a ravine heading towards the river. Follow this ravine down to the river, and be mindful of the path you take as the erosion in this area is high. On the otherside of the river, there is a fallen pine tree (still alive) that is where you will climb out of the riverbed at onto flat ground. Crossing the River/Stream should be easy and head towards the tree once you cross the stream. 50 yards past the tree/rim of the river, the Nine Lives Boulder sits in all of its glory. Of course, you can always take the bushwhacking route and start at the Falls Area river crossing and head north for a while staying near the cliffs.
Park in the West Trailhead parking lot at the North Entrance (the one just south of the port-o-potty area), and take the trail that heads towards the river/mud-cliffs. This trail goes through some switchbacks, and right after that, you come to a fork in the road. Take the path on your right (heading south) for only 15-20 feet, and you will notice a ravine heading towards the river. Follow this ravine down to the river, and be mindful of the path you take as the erosion in this area is high. On the otherside of the river, there is a fallen pine tree (still alive) that is where you will climb out of the riverbed at onto flat ground. Crossing the River/Stream should be easy and head towards the tree once you cross the stream. 50 yards past the tree/rim of the river, the Nine Lives Boulder sits in all of its glory. Of course, you can always take the bushwhacking route and start at the Falls Area river crossing and head north for a while staying near the cliffs.
9 Comments