Type: Trad, 50 ft (15 m)
FA: Monty Reagan
Page Views: 4,281 total · 23/month
Shared By: Ben Sachs on Jan 12, 2009
Admins: Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier

You & This Route


26 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

Pull the opening boulder problem of Middle Road and traverse right a few feet past good gear. Pull the steep roof past 2 bolts and a pin to a jug and gear. Finish on jugs to the anchor. Pumpy for its height. Perfect rock and fun movement.

Location Suggest change

North End. The guide mentions that the original start traversed in from Vascular Disaster, which is true. There used to be a fixed stopper to protect this but it is gone now. It also mentions some "unprotected" starts. Everyone I know starts on Middle Road. This way is very well protected, fun, and consistent with the difficulty of the climb. I'd recommend this option.

Protection Suggest change

3 bolts and an old pin (that most people skip). Good gear after the opening boulder problem and between the last bolt and anchor. The anchor is a fixed hex that wiggles and I think a fixed stopper. It seems fine but I'd back it up with a small cam if you plan on TR.

Photos

loading