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Routes in Glen Haven Picnic Area
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Bosh Fire S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Chosshaven Crack (suggested) T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Race Against Time on the Roof of the World S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Greg Diamond & Geoff Sluyter, 1996 |
| Page Views: | 640 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned on Sep 5, 2008 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Update: per Bruce Hildenbrand: the area has been open since 2023.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
This route, seems to be at least .12a.
Per Geoff Sluyter: Greg Diamond and I bolted this route in 1996. We named it Bosh Fire (.12c). Skip Harper loaned us his old drill and while the anchor was being put in, the drill started to smoke and caught on fire. After quickly removing the battery and pouring a water bottle on the the drill, I took it apart, taped up the melted wires and it worked fine again. I don't think Skip ever heard about that one!
Bosh Fire does traverse in from the right, which is the crux, and a belay bolt should still be there. The last time I drove by the route, it looked like one of the traverse hangers was missing.
In the winter when the creek is frozen, the direct start can be used which makes the route a fun .12a.
Per Geoff Sluyter: Greg Diamond and I bolted this route in 1996. We named it Bosh Fire (.12c). Skip Harper loaned us his old drill and while the anchor was being put in, the drill started to smoke and caught on fire. After quickly removing the battery and pouring a water bottle on the the drill, I took it apart, taped up the melted wires and it worked fine again. I don't think Skip ever heard about that one!
Bosh Fire does traverse in from the right, which is the crux, and a belay bolt should still be there. The last time I drove by the route, it looked like one of the traverse hangers was missing.
In the winter when the creek is frozen, the direct start can be used which makes the route a fun .12a.
Photos
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