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Taylors Falls Question

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Tom Hanson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 950

Just wondering.
Has anyone downclimbed Slicksides, ropeless and blindfolded since 1980?
Has anyone else led Fancy Dancer in tennis shoes, wearing full pack, in the rain?
Is The Jackness Boulder still in vogue?
What do people do there to walk the fine line these days?
Inquiring minds want to know.

Dan Roberts · · Eastern Iowa · Joined Sep 2007 · Points: 50

I don't remember the 80's at T falls, but now it seems to have lost a bit of the hardkorness that you speak of. Seems to be an extension of the VE climbing gym,a place to come entertain the non climbing public and to show off the muscles on your project. Good idea to down climb slicksides.

Bruce C · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2005 · Points: 45

Fine line? Taylors Falls?
Not since we left, Tom.

Lots of real fancy bouldering pads though...

Jonathan Williams · · Minneapolis · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 510
Tom Hanson wrote:Just wondering. Has anyone downclimbed Slicksides, ropeless and blindfolded since 1980? Has anyone else led Fancy Dancer in tennis shoes, wearing full pack, in the rain? Is The Jackness Boulder still in vogue? What do people do there to walk the fine line these days? Inquiring minds want to know.
Which one is the Jackness Boulder? I've seen Genetic Control and Sizzlefoot bouldered recently.... not a whole lot of excitement on Fancy Dancer. Haven't figured out who would WANT to downclimb Slicksides yet :)
Tom Hanson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 950

Hi Jonathan,
The Jackness Boulder is on the left side of the main paved trail that heads down to the boat launch on the Minnesota side.
It faces west. That's about all I can remember from so many years ago.
It is a short, but tough little boulder problem that was considered moderately hard back in the day.
The contrived "spaz" ascents/descents were done, since we had all of the standard fare pretty wired and found hilarious ways of keeping it fun.
On a side note. Are you familiar with That Dam Rock?
It is on the Minnesota side, right next to the dam that is upriver from the bridge.
We did a bunch of lines on it back in the seventies. It was really chossy then and I haven't heard anything about it before or after we climbed it.

Tom Hanson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 950

Tom Woods wrote: "Has the old practice of running across the interstate bridge between Taylors Falls and St. Croix Falls with your pants down while attempting a bowel movement also stopped? Craig Martinson used to beat Tommy Deuchler in this contest every time."

Yeah, that's because Tommy used to put diuretics into Craig's swill and then coax him across the bridge with promises of major fukness on the other side.

Tom Hanson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 950

Boy Tom, You've got that right.
Here's to walking the fine line!

Fuk-ness + Jackness = Cosmic Purity

HFOGHB

Bruce C · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2005 · Points: 45
Jonathan Williams wrote: Which one is the Jackness Boulder?
From the parking lot head toward the potholes via the path near "Pigs in Space". Take the small path that branches right and down some stairs. Just past a small pothole there is a flat face with a horizontal crack (chest high) and an obvious jug near the top.
Tom Hanson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 950

Hoop Hoop!

Hi Bruce, Am I correct in remembering that Jackness Boulder was your line? Isn' that your FA?

Jonathan Williams · · Minneapolis · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 510

Holy crap! You guys are pretty much my heros. There's only threads of Taylors Falls history that have trickled down to the climbers who are there now (mostly boulderers and top-ropers from the TC).

PS- cosmic purity? wow you guys really are from the 70s. ;)

Bruce C · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2005 · Points: 45
Tom Hanson wrote:Hoop Hoop!
UGH!!!

Tom, I would not presume to contradict the Megalomaniacal Potentate of Fukness, DLFA, Club West and The Land Beyond re: an FA.

There was another contrived route on the left side of that same face which I believe I have LA (Last Ascent) honors. While working on it the primary hold (a loose flake) came off in my hand and I ended up tumbling down the rock 'stairs' about 20 feet. Bouldering Pads? We don't need no stinkin' bouldering pads. Broke my wrist.

I have since become lite, but it's good to know you are still pulling down hard. I have not seen anyone on that Dam rock since you left - I'll check it out next time I get there.

Have fun or get hurt bad.

..I see you have taken up rattlesnake twirling...
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Midwest
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