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North Face - Cactus Flower Tower
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.7 from 3 votes
Type: | Trad, 800 ft (242 m), 8 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | FRA: Karsten Duncan, Larry DeAngelo |
Page Views: | 2,874 total · 15/month |
Shared By: | Larry DeAngelo on Sep 25, 2008 |
Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Scramble a long way up the approach gully near Ramen Pride, generally bearing to the right. When you reach the crest of the main buttress, climb up on varied 5th class rock for several pitches. Eventually you come out on a broad wooded ledge beneath the main headwall. Climb a right-facing ramp system behind a large, gnarled pine tree. The second headwall pitch climbs a crack system directly above a second big pine. When the cracks peter out, wander up and right to the summit.
An alternative start bypasses a few of the broken lower pitches. Scramble up to the base of the Blood Wall, then continue up and left (east). This is mostly class 2 with one fifth class spot. You join the longer route one pitch beneath the wooded ledge system.
Descent: this route ends at the Cactus Flower Tower summit, so follow the standard descent along the west ridge.
An alternative start bypasses a few of the broken lower pitches. Scramble up to the base of the Blood Wall, then continue up and left (east). This is mostly class 2 with one fifth class spot. You join the longer route one pitch beneath the wooded ledge system.
Descent: this route ends at the Cactus Flower Tower summit, so follow the standard descent along the west ridge.
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