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Rock Climbing Photo: New anchor with cable clamps.  A 1/2" wrench ...
Id# 106219007, 2000 x 1500px View full size
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By josh wabaunsee
Sep 10, 2009
Way scary.

Who approves this mank?

The over torquing of these cable clamps is very easy to do, as is the under torquing.

As the steel cable ends up with a kink at the rap rings, the strength is compromised. Not to mention the extra surface area for corrosion that wire rope (cable) as compared to chain.

The tail left is way to short.

And last and most importantly the 1/2 of the cable clamps are installed improperly.
By Noah Pittard
From: denver,CO
Sep 22, 2010
Is your view that the left most two clamps are installed improperly because the saddle is on the "dead" side of the cable?
By Ryan Day Thompson
From: Phoenix, Arizona
Dec 26, 2010
Josh, your comment on this has always made me super scared when I rap off of that cable. I've done it 4-5 times now but every time I think, "these were installed badly, I'm going to die."

Can you do me a favor and re-apply to add bolts to the route and remove the cable?
By Chris N
From: Loveland, Co
May 23, 2015
Never saddle a dead horse. The saddle part of a clamp is the cast part not the U bolt. The dead horse is the cut end of the cable. Looking at the photo, the 2 clamps on the right are put on correctly, the 2 on the left are put on wrong and need to be flipped over. Remember - the smooth U bolt goes over the cut off end. It would be better if somebody added a couple more clamps (one at each side) and left a wrench there.

Best would be a loop through a loop with a thimble and three clamps for each side.
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New anchor with cable clamps. A 1/2" wrench can be used to tighten them if in doubt. Weight tested by a 200 lb rappeller.

Submitted By: B immele on Aug 1, 2008
On this route:
West Crack (5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a )
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