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Rock Climbing Photo: New anchor cable. 5/16" steel cable rated at ...
Id# 106219000, 1125 x 1500px View full size
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By Yarp
Apr 15, 2011
So, the cable can only hold 1900lbs or about 8.5 KN, but someone thought it prudent to make sure that two rap rings ended up attached to it rated at over 55 KN apiece or 25,000lbs total? Interesting how a BD #7 stopper is rated far higher than this "anchor" cable and it's no where near 5/16 of an inch. The the cable get connected with Elmer's Wood Glue or what?

Might want to check your info.
By slim
Apr 15, 2011
5/16" cable generally has breaking strength values in the 9,000 to 12,500 lb range, depending on stranding, etc. not sure where the OP got 1,900 from.
By Rich Farnham
Apr 15, 2011
I suspect it's the difference between working load and breaking strength. The 1900 lbf number for the cable is a little higher than the working load I found for 5/16" cable (1700 lbf). I couldn't easily find any specs about strength reduction in a lap splice with cable clips, but terminal ends are 80-90% efficient. Lap splices are probably similar. Working load is typically 20-25% of breaking strength, so an ultimate strength is closer to 8500 lbf for the cable (without reduction for connections).

Climbing gear tends to be rated by breaking strength. This would include the BD stopper and the Fixe rings. So, yes there is a mismatch of strength here, but it's not as bad as it looks at first glance. As for one ring vs. two, it does seem a little strange to have redundancy there but not in the cable as well. I'd say the cable is more likely to fail than one of those Fixe rings; although either is extremely unlikely.
By Jonathan Ward
From: San Francisco
Jun 1, 2011
Think about wear on the rap rings.
By M Sprague
From: New England
Sep 6, 2011
A couple of painted up bolts with rings would be far less visually obtrusive than all that mess.
By fat cow
From: St. Paul, MN
Dec 21, 2011
Sprague is right for sure. Wear on the rap rings? There should hardly be any as people should only be pulling their ropes, but time I suppose does take its toll.
By Slade
From: Gunnison
Jan 10, 2012
What is it with Yarp? Why is it that EVERY comment he makes on MP is something negative in order to highlight how KNOWLEDGABLE and GREAT he is! What are you trying to prove and to who?? Mind your own dang business.
By Blake C
From: Superior, CO
Jul 26, 2015
This anchor is gone, there's a two bolt anchor with rap rings now.
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New anchor cable. 5/16" steel cable rated at 1900 Lbs. 4 cable clamps. 2 Fixe 10mm stock stainless steel welded rings rated at 12,500 lbs. each.

Permit issued by Steve Muehlhauser at Eldo.

Eds. This anchor cable setup has been replaced with a two bolt anchor and rings.

Submitted By: B immele on Aug 1, 2008
On this route:
West Crack (5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a )
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