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Squamish recommendations?

Original Post
ElyseSokoloff · · Spokane, WA · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 0

We'll be in Squamish at the end of August; it'll be my first time and I'm totally stoked. I'm looking for some recommendations for great single pitch or easy multipitch climbing. I'll be 19 weeks pregnant so I don't want something too committing (ie with risk of benighting) but am definitely looking to experience this amazing place. We have the 1992 Mclane guidebook for reference but could definitely buy something new if there's a better option out there. TIA!

Moof · · Portland, OR · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 25

For modest single pitch stuff head to the smoke bluffs for lots of single pitch tomfoolery.

Smoke Bluffs
Penny Lane 5.9
The 5.8 and 5.9 on the Octopus Garden
Many more...

Also see the Malemutes:
Starr Wall alone is a full day of single pitch. You rap in, and climb out. If necessary you can keep rapping down off trees to the railroad tracks (all that excellent stuff down there is now closed). Look up Gonch Pull, High Mountai Woody, etc.

I'll have to dig out my guidebook and find the names of a bunch more of my favories tonight.

Manny Rangel · · PAYSON · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 4,789

when you guys gonna be there? I will be there 8/7-17. Great to see you two there.

ElyseSokoloff · · Spokane, WA · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 0
manuel rangel wrote:when you guys gonna be there? I will be there 8/7-17. Great to see you two there.
Shoot we'll miss you by a week. We don't head over til the 27th. That would have been fun.
BenCooper · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 585

You'll be just fine with the older Mclane guide. Most of the best routes are in there. Agree with Moof, the Smoke Bluffs have more beautiful one pitch lines than you'll know what to do with. Just pick a crag and go!

In terms of multipitch, check out the already crowded Apron. Many classic routes, including Diedre and Snake. Harder lines abound as well. Rock On is a very popular route, and almost always, these routes have people on them. Best bet is to wake early and beat the crowd, or start in the late afternoon. Also, check out Bird's of Prey on the Squaw. It's another good one. Base of the Chief has some fantastic cracks in the 5.10 range. REally, anywhere you go, you'll find good routes. All of the ones I mentioned above are damn popular and you should expect a line. Happy climbing.

Peter Franzen · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 3,730

The Exasperator is not to be missed.

Take an extra few cams and nuts and link up both pitches into one long great one.

ElyseSokoloff · · Spokane, WA · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 0

Thanks for the input. We can't wait!

Andy Laakmann · · Bend, OR · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,990

Hopefully they'll get this mess cleaned up. Massive rock slide!
cbc.ca/canada/british-colum…

Manny Rangel · · PAYSON · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 4,789

Elyse, we had a great time, did Exasperator in one pitch (2nd a tad painful on my tips, too big)and I would do it again in two pitches and comfortable in late afternoon; Deidre was good, kinda hot. Smoke Bluffs has some great crags, just wander. If you want more beta, email.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Pacific Northwest
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