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By deadly dan
From: Santa Fe, NM
Jul 3, 2013
|I climbed the middle crack once. and then traversed right under the roof. Was wondering if anyone's climbed the crack to the left|
By Matthew Fienup
From: Ventura, CA
Oct 22, 2013
|Do you remember how hard that middle crack felt? Thanks for commenting!|
By The Gray Tradster
Oct 23, 2013
Did it that way once years ago so the memory is a bit dim, but I don't recall it being any harder than 8. Pro after the end of the crack was sparse but adequate.
It's likely that plenty of people have done it that way as the Vernon guidebook topo showed it as a 5.7 crack to a sling belay and the move over the roof as 8+.
There may be a move or two of 8 a bit out from gear (or the sling belay) once the crack peters out.
The crux is definitely getting over the roof no mater which of the three variations you use. (For the roof,the left side of the alcove looks heinous)