Chapel Pond on Memorial Day

On pitch 2 of "Hesitation" make sure you turn the roof at the fixed piton! i traveresed right further and worked my way up what was suppose to be 5.5 runout but was uncharted territory. There was a half inch deep flaring crack that took TCU's for the first 20'. I then found myself falling as the last 3 pro popped out of the crack, taking what turned out to be about a 60' whipper almost landing on a ledge! I was very lucky to hobble away with only a broken toe, a dislocated ankle and bunch of sore bones and muscles! Be careful to stay on route!

We were right ahead of you guys. Glad to hear you got away with only a broken toe. We wondered how you managed to take such a big fall.

You partnered looked worried as hell sitting there chainsmoking.

adirondack-aaron wrote:On pitch 2 of "Hesitation" make sure you turn the roof at the fixed piton! i traveresed right further and worked my way up what was suppose to be 5.5 runout but was uncharted territory. There was a half inch deep flaring crack that took TCU's for the first 20'. I then found myself falling as the last 3 pro popped out of the crack, taking what turned out to be about a 60' whipper almost landing on a ledge! I was very lucky to hobble away with only a broken toe, a dislocated ankle and bunch of sore bones and muscles! Be careful to stay on route!

Not sure what the new guide book says, but the correct route is definitely no harder than 5.5. Not completely runout - I did get a 0 in about 10 feet from the belay!
It's a traverse, so both the leader AND second are exposed to a long fall hanging in space.

I am pretty sure the new guidebook says its 5.5R 5.7PG?

I was sucking them down for sure! Having been involved in rescue situations in the past, I really know how bad accidents in climbing can be. So needless to say my heart skipped a couple beats after my partner kept falling, and falling? It was a pretty soft catch thank GOD!!!

Climb Safe!