REI Community
Rock Climbing Photo: Josie Becker pulling around the corner on to easie...
Id# 106172465, 1125 x 1500px View full size
Comments on Photo Add Comment
By jbak
May 29, 2008
Holy pacholy that looks wonder VB was berating me for not having done it. What's the season/sun/shadow scoop ?
By 1Eric Rhicard
May 29, 2008
Hey Jbak, it was pleasant yesterday with a high in Tucson of 96 and a breeze. A good bit of the climb never sees sun including the crux. The belayer could be pretty warm on calm day as they are in the sun after noon. If you got an earlier start than we did it would be fine until one pm on all but the hottest days.

The crux mono move really detracts from the route for me. I was just waiting to hear the pop of my tendon. Wish they had created holds that were closer to the grade of the moves below and above. As much as I would like to do it I might have to take a Bob-point on this one. In fact if there was a bolt right at the crux I might even do it as a A0 move because the line is so outrageous.

Vince also suggested doing some middle finger training to prepare it for the serious stress you will be putting on the digit. The climb is cool enough that I might think about it.
By jbak
May 30, 2008
So efr, why only two stars ? Because the hold wasn't chipped correctly ?

BTW congrats on your project. Nice to see _somebody_ getting a proj.
By 1Eric Rhicard
May 30, 2008
Thanks Jbak. Yes. The unnatural hold in question is a tendon popper and it takes away from the fun of the climb. If you do a lot of mono pulling (as is so common on the Lemmon)kidding, you might give it four stars. The climb pucker factor is so high and the exposure so cool that it is worth doing as an aid line. I don't know if I will redpoint it or not but I am glad I went bolt to bolt. In fact I think I would aid this route before I would drive to Box Canyon, but I have never been there.
By jbak
May 30, 2008
I thought I loaded that hook with pretty good bait...but no one bit.
Photo 3 of 3
Avg Score   0.0 from 0 votes
Your Score   

Josie Becker pulling around the corner on to easier ground while Vince Bates belays 60 feet below.

Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on May 29, 2008
On this route:
Children of the Revolution (5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c )
 Printer View

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About