Gibralter Rock to become State Land

30% chance of rain according to weather.com, so doubtful I'd say. We shall see.....

No doubt we will still go climbing. Vince and I are hitting up the lake right after the ceremony.

Just show me where to sign!

Nicholas T. Chaffin
thane1200@hotmail.com

I was not able to get away from my job yesterday to attend the ceremonies for the transfer of ownership of Gibralter Rock to the DNR.
Does anybody who attended have any comments to share? I saw a brief news blurb on one of the local Madison channels last night but all that was shown was a brief interview at the bluff top of a Lodi local commenting on the land sale. A few brief shots of the classic overlook area at bluff center with people standing around. The story was presented only as Gibralter Rock park being included into Ice Age Trail system with no other aspects of the land transfer being even remotely mentioned.

There were about 6 climbers in attendance and another 20 locals, a few news media, and DNR staff. A few short speeches explaining the land sale were made and then most of us made a hike to the top to enjoy the view. At the top one climber chatted with Rich about the possibility of climbing and he was promptly shot down. 5 of us climbers hiked around the base and collected a couple of bags of trash which we handed over to DNR personnel at the top to dispose of. They seemed impressed that climbers would actually do something so nice. While we were walking down one older fellow who managed to pick up one old beer bottle held it up and commented "Is this your guys?" Obviously referring to the young nature of our group and that perhaps we had just come to find a new party spot. Mr. Remo replied in a cheerful tone, "No, actually we just picked up three trash bags of junk from the base, so we could get rid of that too." To which Mr. Faber opened up his own jacket to use as a receptacle for this man's lone bottle. Perhaps he then got the message.
My next move is to find, in writing, what exactly are the rules for climbing in a State Natural Area with G-Rock now is. I am under the impression that climbing is NOT allowing in these areas unless there is a history of climbing there. What kind of history counts I don't know? But, G-Rock certainly has history.
It seems like the DNR just doesn't want to acknowledge climbing and I can't blame them, liability is a concern. I can't tell weather or not they are in fact hostile, or just don't want to have anything to do with it.
Thoughts?

Chucking beer bottles full of Round Up/Narlon mix off the top may be a quick and fun way to eradicate the Garlic Mustard. And at the same time it would insure the correct amount of broken glass was on all the climbing routes.

Rich,

You speak the truth. It isn't climbing unless there is glass at your feet. LOL.

It was really nice to meet some other WI climbers. Glad to see everyone who was there. It was a nice time. I was blown away by Gibralter. What an amazing crag!!

Here's a pic of the trash we picked up. I took the photo.

When we handed over the garbage to the DNR, I told him "If you allow climbing here, we will do this every time we come." He replied "Really??" acting suprised we'd do that. I said "For sure. Every time." He seemed pleased to hear that. The more things we can do to help out the park, the better our chances of climbing it will be.

For years and years climbers were the only people (I personally witnessed) that made an effort to gather up and haul out the garbage from G-Rock park. I have heard of a few naturalist groups that have organized and done so as well. The fact that climbers were helping to maintain the park buy picking up the ever accumulating trash (the biggest source being partying people who get their jollies by throwing it off the top and watching it sail to the bottom (usually the booze containers they carry up)) was never even remotely considered as a plus by the powers that be in the past when climbers were trying to get back climbing access. I am not wanting to be cynical here but it just never really mattered and a lot of trash was hauled out of there on many occasions. Way to go making them see climbers as a group doing something like this though. I haven't been up to G-Rock in a a few months or so and I usually make a point to pick up some of the junk at the bottom when I make visits. It is an endless task though I am afraid. Rich-- fire bombing the garlic mustard sounds kind of fun but don't give them darn polut'n party'ers any more dumb ideas then the twisted ones they all ready have..

I've been in contact with Matt Zine of the DNR in charge of SNAs. He has been very nice and willing to talk with me about the issue. I have found out a lot of stuff. First off, the DNR never owned G-Rock until now. It closed to climbing in 1997. Matt Zine has given me emails and letters from 2000 when Steve Frye was trying to gain access for climbers. After reading through them, I feel we have might have lost our chance at G-Rock because of how Steve went about trying to gain access. He misspoke on a lot of issues, he made suggestions that would appose the whole idea of a SNA, and made an overall bad impression. These impressions are still on the minds of those involved today.

After talking with Matt Zine and reading all the info provided to me, I feel we have lost our chance for now. The petition is still a good idea, but it will be shut down by so many people. I still think we should persue the petition and get it in the hands of someone that might be able to help us.

As of right now, there is no Master Plan for G-Rock. Matt stated that many SNAs still needed Master Plans. He said if/when a Master Plan for G-Rock is made, that would be our best chance at gaining access to the area. So lets all keep our eyes and ears out for info on the future Master Plan for G-Rock.

Thx everyone for all your support!! We are not giving up!!! We will try to the very end!!

dnr.wi.gov/org/land/er/sna/…

It appears that Gibraltar became a SNA in 1969 and as Doug and others pointed out, transferred ownership from Columbia County to the DNR in 2007.

Being an active part of the Friends of Scenic Lodi Valley and, obviously, involved in the master planning efforts could be rewarding...I think the Friends and others should be pushing the DNR to get the master planning effort underway. More delays will only see further degradation of the property and keep away historic recreational use (such as climbing) at this special place.

The discussion needs to begin as soon as possible and climbers need to be part of the solution and not assume that past practice (poorly bolted routes, one example) is the standard by which future climbing will be happen.

I have pulled my share of garlic mustard the last time I visited and picked up trash, too. Has anyone been there with a plant biologist who has identified where the unique plants are located and what changes have been observed (aside from the GM) since the climbing "ban" was put up by the County???

Bump.

What needs to be done to get this place open to climbing?

Add me to the list please:
Bill Thompson
bill@downwindsports.com

G rock is in a holding pattern to be reviewed for a land use plan by the DNR. As far as I have heard they may not get to it for years. I suggest we all keep our ears open and when it finally comes around to a committee we can finally have some say.

I honestly thought that G Rock was already at least partially maintained (by which I mean neglected)by the DNR. I'm pretty certain their friends group does most/all the work that needs to be done maintaining it because the DNR that are supposed to look after it have 8,000 more important things to do and less than enough staff to do it with. That said, in order for Gibralter to be opened to climbing by anyone I think it would need at least a couple full time staffers just to keep tabs on things so the powers that be don't fret over "unsupervised" climbing. In essence it's an uphill battle with a lot more subtleties than just "yes" or "no" to climbing there.

This is both frustrating and comical. After spending many years in Idaho and living near Castle Rocks State Park and seeing the relationship between the climbing community and park staff, the wisconsin DNR seems to be living in th 50s still. I understand that in the midwest there is less public land for recreation however climbing is still not viewed realistically/correctly. In addition, I am sick of seeing climbing being treated and viewed as a secondary activity. I would propose the arguement that the DNR is dicriminating against a certain user group(climbers) by not recongnizing our activity and making allowances for it. Consider the impact promoted and allowed by other usergroups: hikers, get structuires in all parks(railings, lookouts, ellaborate trails, interpretive signage, etc. Why is it that we are not allowed to recreate in a respectful and legitimate activity? Lack of knowledge regarding the activity and what a resource climbers can be to an area are legitimate, but it seems that tere is more to this than those simple factors. So I ask those in the know, whats the real deal? Is this a situation where there's one or two good ol boys holding it up or is it an institutional thing? Lets turn up the pressure folks!

Wisconsin needs a coalition! I'm in.

Here we go !

When I first started to meet people and hear of things the WOA was around. I think Rhoads was last president??? Is this group defunct, or still around?

Has the DNR provided any specific reasons why climbing is not allowed?

Part of the problem in Wisconsin is the DNR has no real policy when it comes to climbing. Rules that seem to be the letter of the law in one park are overlooked or different in another. Even the rangers don't know what is going on or the choose to selectively enforce the law. About 6 or 8 months ago I emailed the director of State Natural Areas in WI to ask about bouldering in Rib Mountain State Park near Wausau. In his reply he sent the states legal definition of climbing and a small part about how they interpret the law.

NR 45.03(8f) "Climbing activity" includes any of the following:
(a) Ascending or descending steep rock walls, ice walls or artificial
structures, usually with the assistance of specialized rock
climbing equipment including ropes, webbing and carabiners.

(This was his next comment) The operative word there is "usually". We interpret the rule to include free climbing and bouldering without the aid of climbing equipment.

I'm pretty sure that the WI DNR still views climbing as some archaic activity that still involves building bolt ladders everywhere we want to climb. Several days ago I called up to Rib Mountain and talked to a ranger there. He told me that climbing has never been allowed in the state park there but they just chose not to enforce it before. However, scrambling is allowed. So as long as you don't have a pad or shoes you can probably get away with whatever you want.

Their selective enforcement can be seen even at Governor Dodge where climbing is allowed too. Several of my friends were ticketed for unknowingly being in the park after hours (hunters and fisherman are excluded from the laws pertaining to park hours, but not climbers). The ranger who ticketed them near the Qual Wall told them they were hurting the rocks and wearing down the trails (he was talking about the horse trail). They actually saw the same ranger the next week driving a state SUV down the same trail. Thankfully the case is being reviewed by the Iowa County District Attorney and stands a very good chance of being thrown out.

Myself and one other climber from UW Platteville are in the process of drafting a letter to send into the DNR. We'll be sure to put it up here to get some extra input before we send it in.