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The Nose (aka Mid-Columbine Buttress) Rock Climbing

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Routes in The Nose (aka Mid-Columbine Buttress)

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	Alabama Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Alabama Crack Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Nose, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

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Elevation:	6,671 ft
GPS:	38.7922, -104.883 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	6,786 total · 35/month
Shared By:	Bosier Parsons on May 9, 2008
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: Road closure and reopened after flood damage! Details

Per Steven Armijo: Cheyenne Canyon Road is closed until May 2022 for bridge repairs. Only hiking and biking trail access is allowed into the canyon.

Per Stewart M. Green: the North Cheyenne Canyon was reopened after the floods of 2015.

Per Stewart M. Green: ATTENTION!! The Colorado Springs Parks Department has CLOSED ALL CITY PARKS, including Garden of the Gods, Red Rock Canyon Open Space, and North Cheyenne Canon, to rock climbing for the upcoming Memorial Day weekend.

This is due to record rainfall totals in western Colorado Springs which as caused severe trail and parking lot damage, saturated the sandstone cliffs, and is causing parts of cliffs to break off.

The parks will be re-evaluated on Monday to determine how the closure will last.

Please respect the closures and take care of our precious climbing areas!

Description

This is a narrow, south facing buttress that sits a short ways up the Mid-Columbine Trail, which is on the north or right side of the Canyon as you're heading up. It only takes 10-15 minutes to reach the base, which is literally on the trail. The very bottom of this formation is pretty crumbly, but it quickly turns into solid, clean granite. I first noticed this formation from the Mt. Cutler Trail on the other side of the Canyon. The buttress is highlighted by a large roof about half way up, which is named The Nose. The other cracks on this buttress also look good, but I have only climbed the roof. If anyone has additional information about this formation, its name, or any FA info, please let me know, and I will update the description.

Getting There

Drive up canyon a short ways, and park at the Mid-Columbine Hiking Trail on the right hand side of the road. Walk up the trail about 10-15 minutes to the west and you will see the obvious buttress and big roof directly above you. If you reach the parking area for Mt. Cutler, you've gone too far up canyon. If driving down canyon from Mt. Cutler, this rock looms directly above the road, immediately across from a large, dammed up water hole in the creek. This may help you orient yourself for what you're looking for. I'll try to add some photos soon.

3 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Nose (aka Mid-Columbine Buttress)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 18 ● Alabama Crack Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 15 ● The Nose Trad 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 6 ● Alabama Crack Direct Trad