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What would be a good first lead in the boulder area?

Original Post
Kevin D · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 0

What's a fun, well protected route for a new leader? Actually it will be my 2nd lead. My rack is .4-3 Camalots and a set of nuts.

Kirk Ranney · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 110

Try the Boulderado in Bouder Canyon. There are three or four routes in the 5.4-5.6 range that are failry well protected. You can either rap off from bolted anchors or set an anchor at the top of the wall and walk off to the west. There is some good info on MP about the area. Hope that helps. Climb Safe,
Kirk

mtoensing · · AZ · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 705

flatirons type. first is really good. try calypso at eldo. its like 5.6 and eats pro. good stopper placements. those are both multipitch. the first pitch on the bastille at eldo is good. like 60 feet and one kinda hard move but it is really easy to protect.

look up sport routes that you can do in boulder canyon. place gear in between bolts to get more comfortable on harder stuff for trad. takes some good falls too. i was falling on a stopper in a verticle roof today and i was comfortable.

have fun, Matt

Eric Sutfin · · Denver, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 0
pranakickass wrote:flatirons type. first is really good. try calypso at eldo. its like 5.6 and eats pro. good stopper placements. those are both multipitch. the first pitch on the bastille at eldo is good. like 60 feet and one kinda hard move but it is really easy to protect. look up sport routes that you can do in boulder canyon. place gear in between bolts to get more comfortable on harder stuff for trad. takes some good falls too. i was falling on a stopper in a verticle roof today and i was comfortable. have fun, Matt
I aggree calypso is amazing but if this is your first ever trad climb, or even so if you dont have much gear and were a quickdraw fan id start out in eldo on the wind tower hitting up the left side, breezy is a 5.5 over there and heads of the gully, low angle and good placements. Recon is another good one its to the right of calypso( which is great but not one I would do for a first lead) recon is low angle and has a lot of good nut placements. Solid ledges for anchors too. (be careful because someone today fell on it, dont know how, but be cautios for loose rock). Other sugestions are as you go over the bridge take a left instead of the right to wind tower and go past the cave (this is the whales tale) there are some awesome easy 5.5, 5.6 climbs over there after a 4th class scramble up the slope to some nice cracks and gullys. check out Clementine or the east slab or West Dihedral or whales tale.. all great easy lines with good pro. from there just start checking out some other great 6's and sevend in the park, its a great place but done understemate the ratings.. their harder than your gym or sport lines.

and dont forget to have fun

climb on
eric
colin tucker · · Monticello, UT · Joined May 2007 · Points: 35

The Naked Edge

tooTALLtim · · Vanlife · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 1,786

Definitely not the Flatirons or Calypso.

The Flatirons have pitches that are very runout on easy slab.

Calypso has great gear, but can be tricky for a beginner leader to find after the traverse under the roof. It has the second most accidents for a reason.

I second the suggestion of easy stuff on the Wind Tower, and the Whale's Tail, great beginner climbs that are easy to sew up.

Kevin D · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 0

The Naked Edge it is! Thanks for the suggestions

Patty Johnson · · Reno · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 420

Here are few suggestions. These climbs had great variation of rock, style of climbing and gear placement, lots of headcheck break areas for a beginner trad leader. I had my share of experience in following trad and carrying gear, but leading was a whole new game. Have fun and be careful : )

Eldo: West Dihedral, West crack, Du Dihedral, Let it Vee (mini dihedral, but watch out for the little tree in the lower half of the route).Mesca-line.

Boulder Canyon: East slab on the dome.

Lumpy Ridge: White Whale was fun.

David HH · · CR, CO · Joined May 2006 · Points: 1,695
Patty wrote: Boulder Canyon: East slab on the dome. Lumpy Ridge: White Whale was fun.
FWIW, In my opinion the east slab is PG-13 for a beginner, there is a little run once the crack disappears. Yes, the climbing is easy but on a first lead you probably want sew it up security.

I still think the 2nd pitch of the white whale is weird to protect. The crack is pretty flared.

Again, just my opinion, I would second the boulderado.
YDPL8S · · Santa Monica, Ca. · Joined Aug 2003 · Points: 540

I had a very understanding friend that taught me to lead. The first couple of times he just let me lead the easiest pitch on a multipitch climb, (second pitch Calypso, second pitch Wind Ridge). That way I got to see how he set up anchors and gave me the option of whether I wanted to keep leading or not. It was a great confidence booster, and my next lead of East Slab felt much easier.

Malcolm Daly · · Hailey, ID · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 380

Calypso and the Bastille Crack as first leads? Are you kidding? Look at the stats down on the board in the parking lot. They are #1 and #2 for accidents. People hit the deck trying to lead the start of the Bastille all the time and Calypso is always such a circus on top of the runnout slab start.

I second Breezy...It's easy stand-on-your-feet pro placements all the way, you can walk off from the top of the pitch and it's never crowded.

West Crack can be good, too.

Mal

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 21,711

The Bomb on the Wind Tower.

Mark Cushman · · Cumming, GA · Joined Sep 2006 · Points: 980
Killian's Dead at North Table Mountain, 5.6 has bolted anchors
Washington Irving in Eldo, West Ridge, 5.6 has bolted anchors
Recon in Eldo, Wind Tower, 5.6 has bolted anchors
The Boulderado in Boulder Canyon, 5.4/5.5/5.6 with bolted anchors

These climbs protect well and have a secure anchor point so you don't have to worry about building one. Anchor building is probably the hardest thing to get right when you first start out.
Paul Hunnicutt · · Boulder, CO · Joined Sep 2006 · Points: 325

Twofers Gully (5.5) on Happy Hour Crag. Happy Hour has several good easy lead climbs in the 5.5-5.9 range. The only "problem" here is that you have to construct your own anchor on top. There are no bolts to set up a TR from. There are plenty of big trees to sling though (bring some long slings 10-20'). You could also practice gear anchor setups here and back them up to the trees as you are learning.

There is an easy walk off via a decent trail on the left side. Everything is short enough that you have great communication with your belayer as well.

I would second the idea that the Bastille is a terrible climb to learn placing gear on. Too polished and a bit tricky close to the ground.

Greg Hand · · Golden, CO · Joined Jan 2003 · Points: 2,623

Malcolm, maybe there should be some bolts added to Calypso & the Bastille Crack.
hahahahahahaha

Sorry, its early.
I'll go play golf now.

There is always the West Crack on Whale's Tail.

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,665

Patty nailed that one. Good trad first leads are West Crack and West Dihedral on the Whale's Tail in Eldo.
I have personally cleaned human remains off of Calypso and seen more than a few broken bones at the base fo the Bastille. Those are not good first trad leads unless you are already climbing 5.11 sport and/or are VERY VERY compentent with gear.

The low part of the dihedral on Calypso protects very well, but...
I climb 5.11 trad on gear and have for about 20 years now, and I don't think the the roof traverse takes lots of solid easy pro.

The Bastille Crack starts on some slippery, over-worn terrian with flakes that flare and flex a bit. The protection in this beginning requires sling-work to keep from zippering it, or being so long as to not keep you high on a fall onto the jagged rocks just below. A few years back someone had the gear hold, but still broke his back.

Malcolm Daly · · Hailey, ID · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 380

I'm with Greg...let's bolt those pitches. I'm tired of scraping up broken bodies. Ha!

Last week a young gym climber was on his first lead on the Bastille. Strong climber and he placed gear about every 20-30 feet. From the ground he seemed okay.

Then he fell. He was near the top of the pitch, liebacking around the big flake when he popped off.

Forty-footer and sprained his ankle. All of his gear held --nice job for a first lead. We got him lowered (belayer had to lower to a knot in the end of the rope and then scramble up the pile to get the climber all the way down) then Lizzy hobbled and hopped him down to the creek for a soak in the ice water.

All I can remember him saying was, "Man, this isn't like gym climbing".

Climb safe,
Mal

Kevin D · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 0

First time leading and placing gear every 20-30 ft? That guy's got some balls.

I think I'll get on west crack or breezy. I've followed bastille crack and can see why that might not be the best 1st lead.

Mikeco · · Highlands Ranch CO · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 0
Kevin D wrote:First time leading and placing gear every 20-30 ft? That guy's got some balls.
That's what I was thinking. Given the amount of fixed gear usually on that climb I could protect closer than that just by bringing some draws with me.
Ron Olsen · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 11,360
Kevin D wrote:First time leading and placing gear every 20-30 ft? That guy's got some balls.
Not balls; ignorance and inexperience.
Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,665
Ron Olsen wrote: Not balls; ignorance and inexperience.
Who was belaying him? Good catch, but poor coach.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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