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> Big Cottonwood…
> Storm Mtn Picni…
> Static Wall
The Leisure Route
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.9 from 26
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Routes in Static Wall
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All Static and No Dynamic S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Crown Jewel S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a |
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Leisure Route, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Spinning in the Drain S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Transformer S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 280 ft (85 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Troy Anderson and Tyler Phillips 03-23-08 |
| Page Views: | 4,338 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Stevie Nacho on Mar 23, 2008 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Description
This route offers one long and clean slab pitch and one steeper pitch. Many old routes have been done on this wall, but this is the first to go directly up the guts of the storm mtn cliff.
PITCH ONE: Once the first bolt is located in the gully, follow 8 bolts, pass a 2 bolt (sub anchor), then pass 3 more bolt to another bolted belay with slings. Expect runouts between easy climbing.
PITCH TWO: angle up and left past a painted and really hidden bolt (12' up from the belay), a fixed knifeblade, then climb under the triangle roof. Place some cams then climb up and left towards four bolts on the edge of an arete. After the bolts enjoy easy climbing up beautiful stopper cracks to a two bolt anchor. There is a mystery anchor at the rim of the top of the pitch. This may be for the ice route in the winter. The anchor for the Leisure route is up and right from this old anchor.
PITCH ONE: Once the first bolt is located in the gully, follow 8 bolts, pass a 2 bolt (sub anchor), then pass 3 more bolt to another bolted belay with slings. Expect runouts between easy climbing.
PITCH TWO: angle up and left past a painted and really hidden bolt (12' up from the belay), a fixed knifeblade, then climb under the triangle roof. Place some cams then climb up and left towards four bolts on the edge of an arete. After the bolts enjoy easy climbing up beautiful stopper cracks to a two bolt anchor. There is a mystery anchor at the rim of the top of the pitch. This may be for the ice route in the winter. The anchor for the Leisure route is up and right from this old anchor.
Location
Walk up the gully to the left of the storm mtn falls. Look for a bolt about 20' up from the gully. To descend, rap a single rope into the void and walk the slab to get back to the second pitch anchor. From here, rap to the sub anchor, then down. If you bring two ropes, you can skip the sub anchor. TIE KNOTS IN THE END OF THE ROPE WHEN DROPPING THE FIRST RAPPEL
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