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Bastardized Old Route
5.9- YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 16 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 0 from 7
votes
Routes in Ice Cream Parlor
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10 TR S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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5.6 Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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A Good Day to Die T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bastardized Old Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Black Slab S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Brewed Awakenings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Brush Your Teeth T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cherry Garcia Tower T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Climate Refugee T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Coffin Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Crack 1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crack 2 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crack 3 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Critical Mass T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Doghead Fish T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Earth Muffin Express S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Epidemic T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Freezer Burn T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hot Karl Sunday S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Ice Cream Parlor Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Jumbletron, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
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Knee Grinder T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Kura Buran S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Left Slab S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Linda's Way T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Nightlight T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pandemic T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Parlor Game S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Plush S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pork Soda T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Possessed S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Rain S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Rattler T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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RP City T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Slab Route S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Space Ghost T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sticky Fingers S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Susie Cream Cheese (aka 5.10tr) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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T-Rex T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Unknown OW T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Vanilla Cream T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Wasteland T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 65 ft (20 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,355 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned on Feb 15, 2008 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This route starts on a clean 5.6-ish splitter to the right of Ice Cream Parlor about 75 feet. Climb up the fist/hand crack to a stance. Clip the bolt and make some dirty balancey moves using the faux dihedral and edges. Pass one more bolt to a nice ledge and half of an anchor. I ran out of bolts but there is a 4" empty hole next to the existing bolt (which is a 4" rawl).
Please chop me and remove my bad anchor.
Please chop me and remove my bad anchor.
Photos
7 Comments