REI Community
Rock Climbing Photo: Is.
Id# 106125047, 960 x 1280px View full size
Comments on Photo Add Comment
By Bryan Gilmore
From: New England
Apr 23, 2008
To be honest, I think I like "was" better.
By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Apr 23, 2008
To each his own, but "was" was 200 feet of tat wrapped around a boulder on a sloping ledge that was getting grooved out because of the angle of the pull and that tended to force the rope into said groves or into a crack.
By Ben Kiessel
Apr 24, 2008
Nice job Sam! "Is" looks great. I really appreciate all the hard work you do out in the desert.
By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Apr 24, 2008
I forgot the other link to hold them together... so I used the one that was on the anchor I removed. The link is there to keep the longer chain from blowing in the wind and marring the rock. I'm trying to do all of the anchors this way now.
Thanks for the support.
By Brad Brandewie
Jul 15, 2008
Are you serious? You would rather have that pile of tat than the camo anchor that Sam placed?

Not me.

Thanks Sam!
By Dan Erickson
Jun 8, 2010
Great job with the anchors Sam! Everyone really appreciated that rap/belay station. We also used them instead of the rap station below the other summit (East I think) after climbing that really fun .9 (the one with the "varied corner" and "bulge". Is that rap station supposed to be a bad joke?! I've never seen anything quite like it in 19 years of climbing! Bolts on a block that is perched on a ledge and the block is not huge. It's tilted towards the face, but barely. There is a pristine face right above the block that could have been used. I did not get to inspect it up close, the hangers looked new, but homemade (black colored).

We also cleaned up the tat on that summit. There is at least one good bolt up there, however the existing slings were a mess. We did the best we could working with the existing slings which were mostly in good shape.
By Dallin Tait
From: Blanding, UT
Jan 25, 2013
I think bolting rap stations on climbs that see a lot of traffic is needed. Thanks for you work Sam! Soon as it warms up some I'm planning a trip to climb South Six Shooter with the wife :)
Question, when you are bolting out here in the desert do you prefer glue in bolts, or expansion bolts?
Photo 11 of 24
Avg Score   0.0 from 0 votes
Your Score   


Submitted By: Sam Lightner, Jr. on Mar 20, 2008
On this route:
South Face (5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b )
 Printer View

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About