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Rock Climbing Photo: 4th class descent trail to the left "North&qu...
Id# 106107421, 504 x 672px View full size
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By Billcoe
Apr 5, 2010
I am fairly certain that it is the access to the top of Emotional Rescue, Mike Pajunas' 10b face climb, the first route to the East of the guardrail descent. This is not the 4th class descent picture. If you are looking at this, go back to the road and west approx 20' to see the descent to the base. If it's wet, consider rappelling rather than shiny down a slippery cliff unroped. As Emotional Rescue has such a high first bolt (I have heard of 2 different folks, good climbers both, boffing the start and literally breaking ankles) it is best left as a toprope unless you're feeling real "saucy" or looking for spice. It's that serious, and getting carted out won't be an easy affair either due to the location.

To get on ER, tie yourself off the the large fir tree on top with a short old partial line (you'll need @ 30') b4 you shinny down this trail. There are actually 3 double sets of bolts, however, there is a small ledge with only 2 sets visible, one chest high and one tiptoe high, just to the right of that skinny deciduous tree center of the picture. If you take an extra sling, you can reach over to the left as you are rapping, and clip a steel wire rope around the large fir tree visible to the right in this picture on the cliff edge and TR 2 variations of the route on the East, along with Emotional Rescue all with a single 60 meter rope - and it's one of the best laps (or 4 if you count the variations~!) out here.

An unroped fall on the trail in this picture while just getting to the bolts on the top would undoubtedly be fatal - and totally unnecessary. It takes all of 10 seconds to tie off a short piece of rope and keep yer ass off the deck, and you can clip it off to the anchor giving your bolts in loose blocks some backup. So when you do finally chop your lead line, save the pieces for the top of the Butte.

I probably sound like a preachy old man here, and if you know all this stuff, fine. If you are using this photo to find your way around and this is all new stuff, hopefully my words will have been helpful to you.
By das1405
From: Portland
Sep 16, 2016
This is def access to anchors for Emotional Rescue. Big thanks to Bill Coe for the beta above (still hoping to bump into you out here some day). It made locating, accessing and setting up this climb a lot easier and safer. really nice climbing area for the Butte.
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4th class descent trail to the left "North" side of Warrior Wall. Look for a fallen tree perpendicular to the road and left of the tree about 15 feet is the start. The guardrail descent is another 25 feet to the left.

Submitted By: rl23455 on Feb 17, 2008
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