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Elevation: 5,267 ft
GPS: 32.2365, -104.754
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 18,781 total · 95/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Jan 22, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown

Description Suggest change

The Violince Wall, aka the Warmup Wall, features the best selection of moderate routes in the canyon. The black, grey and tan streaked limestone is of the highest quality, rivaling that of any cliff in the country. The wall faces Northeast, so receives some morning sun, making it a great cliff for warming up.

Routes here range from slightly slabby, to just past vertical, with the occasional roof or bulge. Grades range from 5.8 to 5.11+, with one 5.13a, Wild Deuces. Climbing is generally on thin pockets and edges. Good footwork and balance are essential, but the occasional bomber jug keeps things fun.

Getting There Suggest change

Follow the main trail from the parking lot, down into the canyon. This trail follows the crest of a descending spur in a N-NW direction. After ~5 minutes, a good trail breaks off to the right. Follow this trail to the N-NE. After ~100yds, a short 2nd class down climb is required (this can be tricky in heavy snow conditions). The trail bends back to the left, to another downclimb. After this second downclimb, the trail heads back to the SE, eventually traversing along the cliff base. A few short steep cliffs are passed before reaching the first established routes, on a long clean, 60-foot vertical panel of black & blue limestone. The first bolted route encountered is Poker Face Joe, 5.11b. Continue another 50 feet along the cliff base to a nice flat area, complete with stone benches, at the top of a small rise.

13 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Violince Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 45
Riot
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 36
Hysteria
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 11
Unknown
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 35
Summer Fugue
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 35
Rage
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 19
No Frets
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 44
Fiddler on the Roof
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 13
Ferocity
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 11
South American Bowtie
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 14
Zagreb (Unnamed 4)
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 9
"Number 3"
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Riot
 45
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Hysteria
 36
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Unknown
 11
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Summer Fugue
 35
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Rage
 35
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
No Frets
 19
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Fiddler on the Roof
 44
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Ferocity
 13
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
South American Bowtie
 11
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Zagreb (Unnamed 4)
 14
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
"Number 3"
 9
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Violince Wall »

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