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mikewhite
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Dec 6, 2007
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Feb 2007
· Points: 55
Just take a torque wrench with you.
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mschlocker
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Dec 29, 2007
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San Diego, CA
· Joined Apr 2006
· Points: 3,195
Seth Green wrote:Another concern, to me at least, is that sleeve anchors (Powerbolts) need to be re-tightened after their first significant loading. Bring a wrench when out on your latest drill-fest, eh? Powers recommends against doing this somewhere on their website. They have graphs of how the preload relaxes a little after the first day of installation but their advice is that this is better than to keep re-tightening the bolt which may after many times, start to jack the bolt out of the hole. If you're talkng about spinners, I'd say any type of bolt has an equal chance of doing this from all the ones I have seen. I think part of the spinner problem is that most people put on hangers wrong so that they spin a little and start to unscrew the bolt the first time somebody takes a good fall on them. They should be installed so that if the bolt were loose, and they were weighted they would not spin. This is at some funny angle. Petzl hangers actually have a down arrow on them to help out.
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JmH
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Jan 22, 2008
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Arizona
· Joined Sep 2007
· Points: 5
Are glue-ins stronger than wedges and sleeve bolts? I mean the bolt gripping to the rock strength.
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B B
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Jun 20, 2017
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San diego
· Joined Dec 2015
· Points: 571
Haven't seen this covered in this thread. Was up in bishop and wanted to set to bolts on top for a top rope to project an exposed boulder with a R-rated landing. No options for slings or gear at the top. This rock is hard on the surface but like a pumice or sandstone underneath. Im curious as to what the best practice is for protecting this type of rock? 3/8'sx5" bolts?
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Brian in SLC
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Jun 20, 2017
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Sandy, Utah
· Joined Oct 2003
· Points: 21,711
Brandon B wrote:Haven't seen this covered in this thread. Was up in bishop and wanted to set to bolts on top for a top rope to project an exposed boulder with a R-rated landing. No options for slings or gear at the top. This rock is hard on the surface but like a pumice or sandstone underneath. Im curious as to what the best practice is for protecting this type of rock? 3/8'sx5" bolts? Anchor on the ground with a spare rope on the backside of the boulder, then run it to and over the lip at the top on the other side. Use that for your top rope anchor.
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Pat A
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Jun 20, 2017
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Oct 2013
· Points: 20
"In 1903 in Bisbee, AZ, (Fred)Yockey drilled 26 5/8” in 15 minutes in a block of Gunnison granite, a record which still stands for a 15 minute contest.” Rock Drill Data
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B B
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Jun 20, 2017
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San diego
· Joined Dec 2015
· Points: 571
Silverplume wrote:Please don't. Not helpful, suggestions are great
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B B
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Jun 20, 2017
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San diego
· Joined Dec 2015
· Points: 571
Brian in SLC wrote:Anchor on the ground with a spare rope on the backside of the boulder, then run it to and over the lip at the top on the other side. Use that for your top rope anchor. Thanks brian, this is a great Idea. I just need to buy another rope, was hoping there was a cheaper way. Maybe I can find some webbing for a good price.
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Kevin DeWeese
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Jun 20, 2017
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@failfalling - Oakland, Ca
· Joined Jan 2007
· Points: 981
JmH wrote: So then it would take at least an hour or more to hand drill a bolt hole. lol
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20 kN
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Jun 20, 2017
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Feb 2009
· Points: 1,346
I am not really a boulderer but I think installing bolts on a boulder problem, top roping the problem into memorization and then bouldering up for the RP would be considered poor style, even for a boulderer. I agree with the other suggestions, place a haul bag on the other side filled with rocks and use that as an anchor. That's pretty common in commercial rope access for building anchors. Just make sure the rope anchor doesent fall over the side of the boulder while you're using it otherwise no more anchor.
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B B
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Jun 23, 2017
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San diego
· Joined Dec 2015
· Points: 571
20 kN wrote:I am not really a boulderer but I think installing bolts on a boulder problem, top roping the problem into memorization and then bouldering up for the RP would be considered poor style, even for a boulderer. I agree with the other suggestions, place a haul bag on the other side filled with rocks and use that as an anchor. That's pretty common in commercial rope access for building anchors. Just make sure the rope anchor doesent fall over the side of the boulder while you're using it otherwise no more anchor. Seems like its getting hard to classify whats a boulder now -a-days haha. This is probly about 20-30 ft. Some may be comfortable high balling it but in order to clean some holds I need an anchor. Next time im out there Im ganna scout around for options of a floor anchor.
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20 kN
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Jun 23, 2017
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Feb 2009
· Points: 1,346
John Wilder wrote:Top roping high balls is pretty standard procedure for alot of people. Honnold, Nina Williams, and tons of non famous people who crush problems like Ambrosia, Shining Path, etc, all preview on top rope first. My comment was not in regards to TRing the problems as much as it was in regard to bolting them. I very rarely see bolts on top of a boulder problem unless used to get down and just about every boulderer I know would not take kindly to machine gunning bolts on the top of the problems. Also, I am not sure one call a route a boulder problem if you bolt it and then climb it with a rope until you get the TR redpoint. It's a top rope route by very definition at that point.
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B B
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Jun 26, 2017
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San diego
· Joined Dec 2015
· Points: 571
20 kN wrote:My comment was not in regards to TRing the problems as much as it was in regard to bolting them. I very rarely see bolts on top of a boulder problem unless used to get down and just about every boulderer I know would not take kindly to machine gunning bolts on the top of the problems. Also, I am not sure one call a route a boulder problem if you bolt it and then climb it with a rope until you get the TR redpoint. It's a top rope route by very definition at that point. Not looking to "maching gun" bolts all over. Simply was just curious about placing 1 or 2 color matched metolious hangars. when I go back I'll definitely try and make a anchor hung over the edge if possible. If not, I guess there is no other way of protecting soft rock.
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