Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | Ron Skelton and Mark Tuttle - Late 1980's |
Page Views: | 3,594 total · 18/month |
Shared By: | Osprey Overhang on Jan 7, 2008 |
Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
This route is a must do if you are in Yosemite during the winter and its too cold to climb further up in the park. It offers an excellent elevation gain while ascending both crack and face at a moderate grade.
Pitch 1: Begin climbing in an awesome hand crack that continually narrows and eventually ends after 100ft. Continue straight up (5.8) past two bolts (runout) to a two bolt anchor with slings and two rappel rings.
Pitch 2: Face climb (5.8) passing the right side of *three bolts (runout). Continue straight up over a small rooflet (small TCU) and a bolt to a two bolt anchor with slings and one rappel ring. *Note - One more bolt than in Donald Reid's topo.
Pitch 3: Climb a thin (small TCU) yet widening finger crack (5.7) to a large ledge. Exit the ledge on the right (large cam) and climb up and left past a bolt (runout) to a two bolt anchor with slings and one rappel ring.
Pitch 4: Climb a thin right slanting crack (5.6) to the summit of the formation. Look at the cliff above before rappelling.
Pitch 1: Begin climbing in an awesome hand crack that continually narrows and eventually ends after 100ft. Continue straight up (5.8) past two bolts (runout) to a two bolt anchor with slings and two rappel rings.
Pitch 2: Face climb (5.8) passing the right side of *three bolts (runout). Continue straight up over a small rooflet (small TCU) and a bolt to a two bolt anchor with slings and one rappel ring. *Note - One more bolt than in Donald Reid's topo.
Pitch 3: Climb a thin (small TCU) yet widening finger crack (5.7) to a large ledge. Exit the ledge on the right (large cam) and climb up and left past a bolt (runout) to a two bolt anchor with slings and one rappel ring.
Pitch 4: Climb a thin right slanting crack (5.6) to the summit of the formation. Look at the cliff above before rappelling.
Location
Park at a pullout below the cliff and walk up the left side of a steep, loose drainage on a climbers trail to the base. Traverse the base left 100ft to a hand crack on the left side of a ledge next to a tree. This is the start of the climb.
Protection
Climb this route with a single set of gear to 3.5". Also, bring some quick draws for the bolts, a few shoulder slings, and and two ropes. (One 70m WILL NOT work for rappel without leaving carabiners)
The bolts are 1/4" and are good but starting to show rust. The anchor bolts are all good 3/8".
The climbing is not hard but a calm/cool head will help to enjoy this climb as some of the runouts are +/-20ft. The rock is Yosemite granite - solid and high quality.
The bolts are 1/4" and are good but starting to show rust. The anchor bolts are all good 3/8".
The climbing is not hard but a calm/cool head will help to enjoy this climb as some of the runouts are +/-20ft. The rock is Yosemite granite - solid and high quality.
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